Grand Seiko’s Affordable Cousin Has Never Made a Watch This Good-Looking Before

This Japanese watchmaker continues to up its game.

Close-up of a wristwatch with a black textured dial, silver case, and black leather strap. The watch features Roman numeral hour markers and a moon phase indicator. The background shows a starry night sky with a partially visible moon and silhouetted treetops.Orient Star

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Orient is the gateway watch to many budding enthusiasts thanks to the brand’s near-singular focus on mechanical watches, its broadly attractive takes on several popular watch styles and, most important of all, its ultra-affordable prices.

But Orient isn’t just a bargain brand. Like its fellow Seiko Epson subsidiary, Seiko, Orient is a Japanese watchmaker that produces all of its movements in-house. Also, like Seiko with Grand Seiko, Orient has its own higher-end sub-brand called Orient Star.

Orient Star’s watches are considerably more affordable than those of Grand Seiko, and while the brand isn’t quite on the level of its cousin, Orient Star is still a legitimate Japanese luxury watchmaker, even boasting some features absent from GS, like silicon escapement parts.

Having said that, most Orient Star watches don’t really do it for me from an aesthetic standpoint. Their dials often feel too busy or have designs that feel cribbed from cheaper watches. But the brand’s latest watch — a hand-wound moonphase dress watch — is very, very good-looking. In fact, I’d say it’s the most attractive Orient Star watch I’ve ever seen.

Silver Orient Star wristwatch with a white dial featuring black Roman numeral hour markers, blue hands, a moon phase indicator at the 6 o'clock position, and a power reserve indicator below the 12 o'clock position, set against a night sky background with a full moon and silhouetted trees. The watch has a black leather strap.
Could this be the best-looking Orient Star watch yet?
Orient Star

Over the moon

Like Grand Seiko, Orient Star isn’t the best at coming up with memorable names for its watches. The new model is the M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand-Winding. But what the watch’s name lacks in elegance, it more than make up for in looks.

A round, 39.5mm stainless steel case surrounds a dial featuring slender printed Roman Numeral hour markers and leaf-shaped hands. A power reserve indicator, also featuring a leaf-shaped hand, sits below 12:00, while a moonphase display rests at 6:00, cutting into the index there. I generally dislike the power reserve indicators on Orient Star watches, as I find them intrusive, but I actually don’t mind it here, as the moonphase does a great job of balancing it out.

A close-up of an Orient Star wristwatch with a textured dark dial, silver Roman numeral hour markers, and silver hands. The watch features a moon phase indicator at the 6 o'clock position and a power reserve indicator near the 12 o'clock position. It has a polished silver case and a black leather strap with visible stitching. The background shows a night sky with a full moon.
The moon of the moonphase display is made of mother of pearl for an iridescent shine.
Orient Star

Speaking of the moonphase, it’s a thing of beauty. A dark blue background features printed white stars, while the moon itself is made of mother of pearl. It’s very elegant, and looks like a moonphase display you’d find on much pricier watches.

Also impressive is the manually wound movement powering the watch, which makes its debut with this model. The Orient Calibre F8A62 boasts a 70-hour power reserve and is one of only a handful of Japanese watches to feature a silicon escapement wheel — an increasingly common feature in Swiss luxury watches — granting the heart of the movement increased durability and magnetic resistance.

The blue silicon escapement wheel is visible through the sapphire caseback, along with the rest of the movement, which is quite nicely decorated with perlage on the mainplate, Tokyo striping on the bridges and radial brushing on the mainspring barrel. There’s a second sapphire crystal covering the dial, which boasts what Orient Star calls “Super” anti-reflective coating.

Back view of an Orient Star mechanical wristwatch with a stainless steel case and black leather strap, showcasing the intricate movement with visible gears and jewels through a sapphire crystal case back, set against a night sky background with a full moon. The case back is engraved with details including "EPSON," "SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL," "STAINLESS STEEL," "LIMITED EDITION," "WATER RESISTANT," and "MADE IN JAPAN.
The blue of the silicon escape wheel is visible through the display caseback, to the lower left of the balance wheel.
Orient Star

Pricing and availability

There are two versions of the M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding: one regular production model and one limited edition.

The production model features a white sunray dial with blue hands and a railroad minute track, while the limited reference features silver hands, silver dots above the indices and a dark gray dial featuring a stamped pattern meant to evoke the many stars of the M45 Pleiades cluster after which the model is named. I wouldn’t guess “stars” when looking at the textured dial, but the pattern is attractive nevertheless.

Both the production model and limited edition come on the same black cordovan leather strap — AKA, super fancy leather from a horse’s ass (yes, really) — and while both look great with their Jaeger-LeCoultre vibes, I slightly prefer the more unique and visually interesting look of the limited edition, which is quite rare at just 140 pieces.

As of this writing, you can still buy a limited edition online, and it’s priced at $3,280 on the Orient Star website. The non-limited regular production model is also available online, for the slightly cheaper price of $3,040.

Silver round wristwatch with a textured dark gray dial featuring black Roman numeral hour markers. It has two silver hands for hours and minutes, a power reserve indicator near the 12 o'clock position, and a moon phase subdial above the 6 o'clock position. The watch has a black leather strap with visible stitching. The brand name "Orient Star" is printed on the right side of the dial.Orient Star

Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding

Specs

Case Size 39.5mm
Movement Orient Star Cal. F8A62 manual-wind moonphase
Water Resistance 30m

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