Levi’s Classic Vintage Jacket Just Reached Its Final Form, 72 Years Later

Made in New Jersey from Illinois’s finest leather.

Schott NYC

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By Brad Lanphear

Published December 15, 2025

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As far as I can tell, Kendrick Lamar is responsible for what has low-key been one of 2025’s most persistent fashion trends.

The greatest rapper of our time rocked a Maison Margiela Type II denim jacket at the Grammy Awards in early February, which sparked an unlikely sartorial comeback. Levi’s obscure, short-lived design from the 1950s, which had been largely forgotten, contested its successor, the Type III — more commonly known as a trucker jacket or jean jacket — for the first time in decades.

Dark brown leather jacket with buttoned front and two flap pockets hanging on a wooden hanger. — Levi’s Type II design has never looked better.

For a long time, the Type II jacket has existed well off the beaten path, produced by deep-cut Japanese labels and obscure vintage workwear brands. But this year, I’ve seen dozens of brands release the formerly niche design.

There have been plenty of denim options, ranging from affordable to luxury, along with more creative iterations in materials such as waxed canvas and corduroy. Arguably, the best version was a leather jacket produced as a collaboration between New York’s Schott and Nashville’s Imogene & Willie.

Close-up of a dark brown leather sleeve cuff with a black button and detailed stitching. — Schott’s Type II has a button cuff.

That black leather Type II was gorgeous, but Schott just topped it with a solo effort. As the title declares, the Horween Horsehide Type II Jacket is made with some of the toughest leather made by Chicago’s own Horween tannery.

It is tanned with a rich burgundy color that accentuates the grain of the hide, creating a subtle texture that will deepen with age.

A horse of a different color

It’s worth noting that Schott uses Horween Horsehide leather for this Type II jacket, rather than the tannery’s famed Chromexcel Shell Cordovan. While they are both varieties of horsehide, they are not the same leather.

Close-up of dark brown leather jacket showing detailed stitching and texture. — Horween’s #8 Horsehide Leather accentuates the rich grain on the hide.

In general, horse hide is significantly stronger than cow hide. However, cordovan is one of the toughest conventional leathers available because it is made from the hindquarters of the horse, where the animal has the most muscle and thickest skin.

Shell Cordovan is most often used in shoes because it is damn near indestructible, but it is almost too tough for jackets. I’ve seen Schott Perfecto jackets made from the stuff, and the leather is so stiff that the jacket can stand up on its own.

Standard horsehide leather, derived from other parts of the animal, is still stronger than cowhide, but much easier to wear.

Dark brown leather jacket with buttoned adjustable waist straps laid flat showing the back. — Schott’s Type II has adjustable waist tabs.

As for the color, Schott’s new Type II is tanned with Horween’s #8 secret formula in the same burgundy as the brand’s famed Chromexcel, but with a broader variation in hue and more visible grain than the lustrous, uniform Chromexcel.

Take two

Schott closely follows Levi’s original Type II blueprint, with the only notable variations being a slightly longer body and a slightly trimmer cut. Of course, the main differences are the use of leather instead of denim, along with the addition of a wool plaid lining.

Close-up of a brown, black, and yellow plaid fabric with a dark brown leather-trimmed pocket. — Schott’s Type II has a wool plaid lining.

The Horween Horsehide Type II jacket has two exterior chest pockets with button flaps and metal rivets in each corner. The front is double-pleated, and the sides feature adjustable waist tabs. It has a pointed collar, vented button cuffs and a tapered back panel.

Schott uses solid metal donut shank buttons on the front, cuffs and side tabs. Along with the added lining, an interior vented pocket is on the inner left-hand chest panel.

Close-up of dark brown leather jacket with snap buttons and two flap pockets. — Schott’s Type II jacket has a double-pleated front.

Availability and price

In a year that felt like it had more new Type II jackets than any time since the 1950s, Schott saved the best for last. There is something to be said for all the denim versions that faithfully adhere to the original design, but a tough-as-nails Type II, cut and sewn in New Jersey from one of Illinois’s finest leathers, tops them all.

The Schott Horween Horsehide Type II Jacket is available now from Horween for $1,875.

Dark brown leather jacket with buttoned front and two flap pockets, laid flat on a light surface.

Schott NYC Horween Horsehide Type II Jacket

$1,875 at Schott NYC

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

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