Omega’s New Steel Speedmaster Is the Best-Looking Moonwatch Yet

In March of 2024, Omega released a new stainless steel version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial. This was a big deal because prior to its release, the only steel Moonwatch in Omega’s permanent catalog was the original black-dial version. Suddenly, the world’s most iconic steel chronograph was available in two completely different looks, and the reception was overwhelmingly positive.

Now, Omega has done it again.

Today, Omega has launched a third colorway for the Moonwatch in stainless steel with a drop-dead gorgeous reverse panda version. Like the white dial, it joins the original black Speedmaster Professional in the brand’s permanent catalog.

The new “Speedy Reverse” is undeniably beautiful, but how is it on the wrist? I’ve spent the last week with the watch, and I have some thoughts.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Put it in reverse

Aesthetically, the new Moonwatch Black and White is a stone-cold stunner. Panda dials and reverse pandas are among the most beautiful designs in the watch industry, and such configurations on a Moonwatch are quite rare.

The last time we saw a reverse panda Speedy Pro was the original Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” back in 2017. But that was a far different watch than this, with a more toolish, vintage vibe courtesy of a fully brushed case, closed caseback, no bracelet, Hesalite crystal and silver rather than white subdials featuring concentric engravings and radial numerals.

The new Speedy Reverse is an entirely different animal. At its core, it’s a Sapphire Sandwich, just like the current white dial and the non-hesalite black dial versions of the Moonwatch. That means there’s an anti-reflective-coated box sapphire crystal on the front and a second sapphire crystal on the back showing off the decorated Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 manual-wind chronograph movement.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The bracelet is also the same as the other Sapphire Sandwich models: It’s the generously tapering “Nixon” bracelet with a mix of brushed and polished finishes and the “comfort adjustment” clasp.

The main thing that’s new about the latest Speedmaster is the dial — and what a dial it is. While it features the same stepped dial design found on other 3861 Speedmasters, the subdials are completely different. Rather than utilizing a single dial plate with sunken-in subdials, the Speedy Reverse takes a more complex approach with two separate dial plates.

The top plate in black is varnished and lacquered, making it far shinier and more luxe-looking than the matte dial of the standard black Speedy. The bottom plate is white and is also varnished and lacquered, with a soft, enamel-like appearance. Both feature transferred markings in the opposite color, and the result is decidedly high-contrast and beautiful.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Adding to the shiny, premium look are the applied indices, which, along with the hands and applied logo, are rhodium-plated. There are also rhodium-plated borders on the interiors of the subdials, which not only keep you from seeing between the two dial layers but also give a sort of “infinity” effect to the markers, elongating them at certain viewing angles.

The three main hands have the same lume treatment as the other Moonwatches, while the lume on the indices is the same as on the white version, with only the outer pips of the indices and the two dots at 12:00 being lumed rather than the full indices like on the black version.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

There’s one more material upgrade here that’s absent on both the black and white Moonwatches, and that’s the bezel insert. Instead of an aluminum bezel, the Speedy Reverse features a black polished ceramic insert with white enamel markings. Not only does this provide greater scratch resistance, but its shiny finish makes it a better visual match for the dial, and I’m glad Omega bucked tradition to go with the material that led to a more cohesive design.

The only other change to note is that the case is now 13.54mm thick, which is 0.36mm thicker than the other steel Moonwatches. It’s also 2 grams heavier than the white version. These measurements are the result of the two-layer dial, but the added thickness and slight increase in weight are not noticeable on the wrist in the slightest. This wears and feels just like any other Speedy Pro.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Shinemaster

I think this is, hands down, the best-looking Speedmaster you can buy. Panda designs are just so aesthetically pleasing, and when you combine one with the Speedy’s perfectly symmetrical, iconic design, it turns out to be an absolutely perfect match.

But that’s not to say the watch is perfect, as no watch is. It is very, very shiny. The dial is shiny, the bezel is shiny and the hands and indices are shiny. I’m a big fan of the look — it’s incredibly striking in the metal and looks more luxe than ever before. (“Shinemaster” is another nickname I’ve coined for this one.) But if you want a more toolish Speedmaster, this isn’t the one for you.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The blinginess also has a downside in that it somewhat hampers legibility. At certain angles in certain lighting, the indices can disappear against the deep black dial, making it less legible than other Moonwatches. But I rarely experienced this phenomenon during my time with the watch (which I’m wearing as I write this review), and even when I did, it’s solved by a slight turn of the wrist, so I don’t consider it much of an issue.

One more thing to note is that Omega has also launched a version of the Speedmaster Reverse in full Moonshine Gold, the brand’s proprietary yellow gold alloy. The case, bracelet and hands and indices are all in solid 18K gold (the chronograph hand is PVD-coated), and while I haven’t seen it in person, it’s arguably even better-looking than the steel version. It is absolute grail material.

Omega

Pricing and availability

Perhaps the biggest talking point about this new Speedmaster beyond its undeniable knockout looks is its price. The watch retails for $10,400 in stainless steel, which is $1,300 more than the white dial and $1,400 more than the black Sapphire Sandwich. There are material upgrades with the ceramic bezel, rhodium-plated hands and indices and the more complex dial construction, but the price increase still feels steep.

However, when you zoom out, Omega’s new Speedy can almost be considered a bargain in some respects. The closest competitor to this watch — aesthetically, culturally and historically — is probably the Rolex “Le Mans” Daytona.

That, too, is an iconic chronograph with a reverse panda dial and a ceramic bezel produced in white gold (briefly) and yellow gold (briefer still) and rose gold — but never stainless steel. All references retail(ed) above $50,000 and trade on the secondary market for around four times that price.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The Speedy Reverse in Moonshine Gold gets close to the Le Mans’ SRP with a $49,300 retail price, but there’s no way the secondary market will approach $200K. And if you don’t care about gold and just like the look of the Le Mans, then the steel Speedy Reverse will get you there for a grand less than a Submariner Date. For what it’s worth, I think the Speedy is better looking than the Daytona anyway.

As far as availability goes, the two new Moonwatches are non-limited and are part of Omega’s permanent catalog. But that doesn’t mean they’ll be easy to get. I suspect both models, especially the steel version, will have months-long waitlists, and if we’re lucky, will be available at retail prices by the end of the year, just like the white dial version when it launched two years ago.

Omega

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Black and White

Specs

Case Size	42mm
Movement	Omega Cal. 3861 manual-wind chronograph
Water Resistance	50m

• $10,400 at Omega

Read More

• 

  Would the Omega Speedmaster Still Be an Icon If It Never Went to the Moon?
• 

  Did Omega Just Launch the Next Legendary Speedmaster?
• 

  Omega Reimagines Its Professional Diver As a Slim and Sleek Sports Watch

Related Topics