J.Crew May Be the King of Affordable Suiting Again, Here’s Proof

Long after the Ludlow reigned supreme, J.Crew is supplying a whole new generation of suiting.

Light blue button-up shirt with chest pockets under a gray wool blazer.J.Crew

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It’s been a decade since J.Crew reached its peak as the king of affordable suiting, and over five years since the pandemic reset the general conception of formalwear.

Men’s Creative Director Brendon Babenzien has fully adapted the men’s line to his vision, delivering precisely what suiting ought to look like as we enter the back half of the 2020s. Better still, it’s available at the same approachable price that once allowed J.Crew to dominate the market.

Man wearing a navy blazer and trousers with a brown plaid shirt, brown belt, and brown suede loafers.
J.Crew’s Relaxed-Fit Suit embodies the type of un-serious formalwear men seek in 2025.
J.Crew

We’ve come a long way since the #Menswear days of the 2010s, dominated by slim-fitting suits, ornate pocket squares and well-polished Oxford shoes.

Formal wear has become decidedly less formal, finding a happy medium between the lockdown loungewear we became accustomed to and the sharply tailored attire that looked good on paper but wasn’t exactly comfortable.

The prevailing look for jackets and trousers embraces the loose, flowing cuts of the 1970s and the 1950s, which provide far more breathing room. Jacket detailing is also more relaxed, embracing the nonchalance of Italian tailoring with unlined bodies and patch pockets.

Gray wool suit jacket and pants worn over a light blue button-up shirt with chest pockets.
Higher waistlines and a longer rise are unquestionably more comfortable on tailored pants.
J.Crew

Babenzien’s J.Crew suiting doesn’t take itself too seriously, just as men no longer take formal wear too seriously. Suits are more often broken up to be worn as separates than as a complete ensemble, and ties are few and far between.

This Mediterranean tailoring look dominates upmarket designers, ranging from Todd Snyder to Brunello Cucinelli, but no brand offers it in the sub-$1,000 price range like J.Crew.

Wider, Looser, Comfier, Easier

J.Crew hasn’t killed off the Ludlow Suit just yet. It is still available in a standard range of colors and fabrics, with a slim fit that remains almost unchanged.

However, the options that are more in touch with the times are Babenzien’s Relaxed-Fit Suit and some examples of the older Crosby Suit, introduced in the late 2010s.

Brown tweed wide-leg trousers paired with matching blazer and dark brown leather loafers.
The Relaxed-Fit Suit Pant has a wide, straight leg, best worn with a flat break that sits right on top of the shoe.
J.Crew

The Relaxed-Fit suit has a squared-off shoulder with no padding. It is either quarter-lined or completely unlined, with no canvas layer to stiffen it up

Wider armholes, an often-overlooked detail in suit jackets, create a greater range of motion and eliminate the constricting feeling under the armpit.

On the body, it feels more like wearing a chore coat than a traditional suit jacket because all the restrictive elements have been removed.

The pants for both the Relaxed-Fit and Crosby designs are wide and straight, offering a similar free-flowing movement to sweatpants. They also have a higher waist with a longer rise, which is considerably more comfortable than a low-waisted Ludlow cut.

Man wearing a dark green corduroy suit with a light purple shirt and a navy blue striped tie.
The Relaxed-Fit Suit Jacket feels more like wearing a chore coat than a traditional suit jacket.
J.Crew

That said, it is still a proper suit. Most versions have a rope shoulder that creates a respectable, squared-off silhouette, and they are all double-vented. The sleeves have a four-button, non-functional cuff.

Patching things up

For me, the most striking feature of J.Crew’s new suiting is the use of open patch pockets. This casual detail is a defining feature of Mediterranean tailoring.

The Ludlow Suit features vented pockets with flaps, a standard design element in men’s formal wear. Patch pockets are easier to use and allow a jacket to be worn separately as a blazer.

Navy blue single-button blazer with notch lapels and three patch pockets.
J.Crew’s Relaxed-Fit Suit uses patch pockets.
J.Crew

Patch pockets are hardly a new concept, and J.Crew has been using them for decades. I still have a blazer from 2013 with three patch pockets. But making them the default on a complete line of suiting marks a notable step down in formality from the Ludlow era.

Examining the current lineup for Fall 2025, every Relaxed-Fit Suit and several Crosby models feature patch hand pockets, with a few also incorporating a patch breast pocket.

Navy blue pleated trousers with side pockets worn with a brown leather belt and plaid shirt.
J.Crew’s Relax Fit Suit Pant in Garment-Dyed Italian Cotton Twill has a single pleat and cuffed hem.
J.Crew

J.Crew’s Relaxed-Fit and Crosby suits also feature much broader lapels than the Ludlow, which is another detail borrowed from the 1970s that has become the prevailing preference.

To me, a wide lapel, patch pockets and unstructured shoulders are the key features of modern suiting.

Availability and price

Despite the decline in need for suiting, J.Crew maintains a robust selection. There are three excellent examples of what the brand is doing best in its price range.

The best part is, all three are on sale for 30 percent off right now.

The first, most affordable and most useful is the Relaxed-Fit Suit in Garment-Dyed Italian Cotton Twill. Unlike a cotton Ludlow Suit, it is perfectly appropriate to wear all year. Formal elements like a single pleated waist, cuffed hem and pick-stitch lapel create a sprezzatura juxtaposition.

Up next is a seasonal wool suit with a slightly more elevated vibe. The Relaxed-Fit Suit in English Merino Wool has a heathered gray-green color that pairs excellently with denim, crewneck sweatshirts, moc boots and classic striped Oxford shirts. It almost works better as a separate blazer and trousers.

The final suit is a Crosby-Fit with a vented breast pocket in a 100-percent cotton, dark green Italian corduroy. This is a definitive fall suit that can be gussied up with some tartan and red for holiday parties.

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