Chronograph watches are cool and technical-looking, with multiple subdials, scales and pushers — and, let's face it, this is why they're still so popular today. But you shouldn't miss out on the useful stopwatch functionality they were invented to offer. While you probably don't need to calculate speed using a tachymeter scale or how far away an artillery battery is, a chronograph can indeed come in handy in daily life and offer a satisfying way to get more out of your watch.
While there are a few different types of chronographs, operating the great majority of goes something like this:
Start the Chronograph
In most (but not all) cases, a chronograph watch will have two pushers on the righthand side of the case. Press the top pusher (located at 2 o'clock) to begin timing an event, and you'll notice the seconds hand (usually centrally mounted on the dial) start to sweep or tick.
Stop the Chronograph
Use the same (top) pusher to stop the chronograph when the event ends. This button is usually operated with the index or middle finger with the watch case supported on the other side by the thumb.
Read the Elapsed Time
Chronograph watches display the time measured on the stopwatch separately from the current time of day. The format can differ depending on the design and movement inside, with some only counting up to 30 minutes while others have the ability to measure up to 12 hours. The seconds, minutes and hours for the chronograph are (usually) read on separate subdials.
For example, let's say your watch has a 30-minute counter/subdial at 3 o'clock and a running seconds hand at 9 o'clock. If you've been timing an event for 15 minutes and 20 seconds, the sub-dial at 3 o'clock will show those 15 elapsed minutes, while the centrally mounted seconds hand will show 20 elapsed seconds. The seconds hand at 9 o'clock will continue to sweep, as it's measuring the time of day — not the time on the stopwatch.
Reset the Chronograph
Finally, the bottom pusher (around 4 o'clock) resets the chronograph to zero.
(Notable chronograph variations include the flyback, which allows you to reset the chronograph without first stopping it. A monopusher chronograph only uses a single button for all functions — stop, start and reset. A split-seconds, or rattrapante, is a particularly complicated type of chronograph, allows you to measure two separate events simultaneously.)
The Speedmaster Professional you can buy today is nearly identical to the one worn to the moon in 1969 — it has the same case shape and size, the same dial design, nearly the same movement, even. And that’s fine. The Speedmaster of the ’60s was built to meet NASA’s incredibly tough standards, and its iconic status as the first watch on the moon makes it a must-have for any serious watch collector.
Price: $6,300+
The Daytona is one of the most beloved and sought-after watches, both on the vintage and new watch markets. The current model is especially a fan favorite, as the addition of a black-on-white panda color scheme, red Daytona text and a black ceramic bezel give it the appearance of a reference from the 1960s. While not cheap — and nearly impossible to buy at retail — it's a watch that will simply never go out of style.
Price: $14,550+
With its classic vintage looks, reverse-panda dial, 39mm size and solid specs, the French brand Yema’s Speedgraf presents an attractive package. Further, it features an interesting movement from Seiko that isn’t all that common outside of watches from the Japanese brand itself. (It even has the column wheel and vertical clutch technical features that enthusiasts tend to value.) On top of it all, little touches like applied indices and a box-style domed sapphire crystal lend it a refined feel.
Price: $1,499
