Audemars Piguet Follows Up Its Swatch Watch with Another Royal Oak Collab

Without a spec of BioCeramic in sight.

Close-up of a luxury watch with a brushed metal octagonal bezel, visible gears, red mechanical component, and textured black strap.Audemars Piguet

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Everyone, and I mean everyone, was talking about the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop collab over the past week. Even my father, who would probably struggle to name three watch brands, texted me on Saturday to ask, “What’s up with this Swatch watch?”

However you feel about the Royal Pop and its decidedly chaotic release, and there are a lot of varying opinions out there, there’s no denying that it significantly boosted the name recognition of Audemars Piguet, a brand highly regarded in horological and luxury circles but less of a known commodity among the general public.

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Now, less than a week after the Royal Pop’s headline-dominating launch, AP is already going back to the collaboration well for its next watch release. And while the brand’s new collaboration still incorporates some elements of hype culture, I don’t think we’ll be seeing swarms of people congregating outside AP boutiques trying to be the first in line to get one.

Silver octagonal watch case with exposed gears, black dial, and red strap.
AP’s new collab is just a bit different than the Swatch Royal Pop.
Audemars Piguet

Seeing red

AP’s new collab is with Yoon and Verbal, the husband-and-wife cofounders of Japanese streetwear/jewelry label Ambush. Far from a mass-appeal object like the Royal Pop, the new collab is much more in line with what we expect from AP: niche to the worlds of luxury fashion and streetwear, and experimental from a watchmaking viewpoint.

The collab is a member of the Royal Oak Concept family, a more avant-garde and contemporary reimagining of AP’s classic sports watch that frequently acts as a canvas for the brand’s bolder horological experiments, like its previous collaborations with Marvel.

Black wristwatch with a silver octagonal bezel and visible mechanical movement worn on a wrist near a person's face.
Ambush founders Yoon and Verbal put their avant-garde spin on the already out-there Royal Oak Concept.
Audemars Piguet

In this case, the watch is a Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon with a few visually arresting updates. For starters, the dial is made of sparkling aventurine glass and is partially openworked to expose not just the tourbillon at 6:00, but also the skeletonized mainspring barrel and some gears of the motion works.

Speaking of the tourbillon, its aluminum cage has been anodized to a brick-red color, marking the first time AP has ever given such a treatment to this decidedly delicate component. The red color really makes the tourbillon stand out even more than usual, especially against the cracked aventurine backdrop.

Close-up of a luxury watch face with a black speckled dial, silver hands, red mechanical detail, and a brushed metal bezel with screws.
The red anodized aluminum tourbillon cage is a first for AP.
Audemars Piguet

The hands are blackened white gold and are filled with gray lume to match the black rehaut minute track with printed gray-lumed hour markers. The case measures just 38.5mm across and 11.4mm thick, a compact size seen previously but not often on the Royal Oak Concept, and is made of titanium with a mix of brushed, polished and sandblasted finishes.

The watch includes two rubber straps, one black and one red, both of which feature a unique micro-mosaic pattern on their exterior and a quilted interior. They can be swapped without the use of any tools thanks to a quick-change system built into the case.

Inside the watch and visible through the caseback is a new movement created specifically for this watch. Based on the earlier AP Calibre 2964, the new Cal. 2982 remains a hand-wound, 3Hz flying tourbillon with a 72-hour power reserve but adds an additional jewel and features updated hand finishing, including a blackened mainplate and partially openworked architecture.

Close-up of the back of an Audemars Piguet limited edition watch showing its mechanical movement with visible gears and jewels.
The new movement was created specifically for the watch.
Audemars Piguet

Availability and pricing

If there’s one thing this new AP Royal Oak has in common with the Royal Pop, outside of being a collab, it’s that it will be extremely difficult to purchase.

Braving clouds of pepper spray and exorbitant secondary market prices to secure a Royal Pop seems like a picnic compared to attempting to purchase the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon x Yoon & Verbal.

For starters, the watch is exceedingly rare, with just 150 examples being produced. Secondly, it’s crazy expensive, with its SRP of CHF 176,800 currently converting to an eye-watering $224,875.

Silver octagonal watch case with visible gears and black dial, red textured strap.Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon x Yoon & Verbal

Specs

Case Size 38.5mm
Movement Audemars Piguet Cal. 2982 manual-wind tourbillon
Water Resistance 20m

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