IWC Unexpectedly Transforms Its Iconic Dress Chronograph into a Sporty, Stealthy Stunner

Dark meets light.

Black wristwatch with a textured black rubber strap and a minimalist black dial on a red background.IWC

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IWC, like Rolex, effectively splits its catalog between dress and sports watches.

The Schaffhausen brand doesn’t go so far as to categorize its product lines into “Classic” and “Professional” groups like The Crown does, but it’s pretty clearly understood that IWC’s Pilot’s, Ingenieur and Aquatimer lines are the brand’s sports watches, with the Portofino and Portugieser (and formerly, the Da Vinci) representing the dressy side of IWC.

But sometimes, the coolest watches are produced when those lines between dress watch and sports watch are blurred. That’s what IWC has done with the latest iteration of the brand’s iconic complicated dress watch, the Portugieser Chronograph.

Black chronograph wristwatch with textured rubber strap and matte black dial on a dark background.
Behold, the sportiest Portugieser Chronograph yet.
IWC

Stealth mode

IWC has long been a pioneer in the use of alternative materials in watchmaking. In 1980, the Porsche Design by IWC Titan Chronograph was both the first chronograph and the first Swiss watch with a titanium case. Six years later, the brand launched a Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar with the industry’s first case made of zinc oxide ceramic — the same ceramic material used for watch cases throughout the industry today.

In 2017, the brand combined its long histories with titanium and ceramic into one groundbreaking material. Either ingeniously or idiotically dubbed Ceratanium, the new material promised to combine the high scratch-resistance of ceramic with the lightweight strength of titanium. It lived up to the hype and has since been used by IWC in a wide range of sports watches.

Black wristwatch with textured strap worn on a wrist with a black leather jacket sleeve.
The case, crown, pushers and buckle are all made of IWC’s ceramized titanium material, Ceratanium.
IWC

Now, IWC has brought Ceratanium to the Portugieser Chronograph with a new spin on the icon that not only features a black Ceratanium case, crown, pushers and strap buckle, but also a fully blacked-out dial and a textured black rubber strap for an unexpectedly contemporary and stealthy look. Even the sapphire display back has been given a smoky tint.

While the specs and size remain the same for this Portugieser Chrono — the case measures 41mm across x 13mm thick, the sapphire crystal boasts dual-side anti-reflective coating, the water resistance is 30m, and the movement behind the sapphire caseback is the in-house Calibre 69355 automatic column-wheel chronograph — the vibe is completely different.

Back view of a black IWC Portugieser watch showing its mechanical movement through a transparent case back with a black rubber strap.
Even the sapphire caseback gets a “dark mode” tint.
IWC

It’s wild how different this watch feels from every other Portugieser. With black hands, applied indices and dial, it’s certainly not the most legible version of the watch, but it’s hard not to describe it as the coolest.

Availability and pricing

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is a limited edition with just 1,500 pieces being produced.

It’s only available on the rubber strap — which sadly does not feature IWC’s excellent proprietary EasX-Change system — and retails for $14,600, making it the most expensive non-gold Portugieser Chronograph currently for sale.

Black chronograph wristwatch with textured black rubber strap and matte black dial with silver markers.IWC

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

Specs

Case Size 41mm
Movement IWC Cal. 69355 automatic chronograph
Water Resistance 30m

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