Japan’s Most Hyped Affordable Watch Brand Has a New Covet-Worthy Chronograph

Seiko-powered, stunning dial, can’t lose.

Close-up of a kurono tokyo watch face with an orange dial, featuring silver hour and minute hands, a black subdial with white markings, and silver hour markers. The watch has a polished metal bezel and a curved crystal. The number "12" is prominently displayed at the top, and some text is partially visible on the dial.Kurono Tokyo

Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

As one of the world’s most talented independent watchmakers, Japan’s Hajime Asaoka‘s creations deservedly cost a small fortune and are available only to a small and exclusive group of collectors.

For the rest of us, there’s Kurono Tokyo, the affordable sub-brand Asaoka created to offer more pedestrian collectors the chance to pick up one of his gorgeous watches. As a result, Kurono ranks as arguably the most hype-driven Japanese watch brand today, with its Art Deco-inspired, limited-edition pieces typically selling out very quickly.

The brand’s latest offering — a chronograph with a seriously uncommon dial — is unquestionably one of its most striking. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the brand’s most difficult to obtain.

A wristwatch with a polished silver case and a bright orange dial featuring two black subdials. The watch has silver hands and hour markers, a date window at the 6 o'clock position, and a black tachymeter scale around the edge. It is paired with a textured black leather strap. The dial includes the text "Kurono," "Automatic Chronograph," and "Japan Made.
Now that is an uncommonly attractive chronograph.
Kurono Tokyo

A powerful color

Most of the new Vermilion Chronograph Shu isn’t actually new. It’s simply a version of Kurono’s existing Chronograph I Mk.2. It has the same 38mm x 13.5mm polished stainless steel case, the same massively domed sapphire crystal and the same Seiko Cal. NE86 automatic chronograph movement.

The dial layout and furniture also remain unchanged. There’s a combination pulsometer and tachymeter scale outside the minute track, recessed black subdials with polished steel borders at 3:00 and 9:00, a date window with a similar border at 6:00 and polished applied steel indices in the form of small studs and a large Arabic numeral 12 appliqué. The polished steel leaf and ‘kyudo’ arrow handset also remain the same, as does the black calf leather strap.

So what exactly is different about the new piece? It all comes down to the color. And what a color it is.

A wristwatch with a vibrant orange dial featuring two black subdials, silver hour markers, and silver hands. The watch has a polished silver case and a black textured leather strap. The dial includes a date window at the 6 o'clock position and the words "Automatic Chronograph." The watch is displayed on a sleek, dark surface.
Hajime Asaoka finally has his bright and bold orange dial after many failed tests.
Kurono Tokyo

Called vermilion, this specific shade of red-orange has deep ties to Japanese culture. It’s historically been associated with nobility and power and has been used on such hallowed items as samurai armor and torii gates. Asaoka has been wanting to create a dial in this dramatic shade of orange for a while, but it took some effort to get the color just right.

Kurono tests its watch dials for color fastness by exposing them to direct sunlight for over 100 days, with one half of the dial exposed and the other half covered in black tape. Asaoka says this simulates more than ten years of regular wear. Once the time is up, the tape is removed and the dial is inspected to see if any color has faded from the exposed half. Every orange color Asaoka has ever tested using this method failed, except for two. One, called selenium red, has yet to be used by the brand. The other is this striking vermilion.

In addition to the rare, fade-proof color, the dial of the new watch has one more change from the previous Chronograph I Mk.2. The text under 12 has been changed to a simple “Kurono,” replacing the kanji and “Kuruno Tokyo” label of its predecessor. It looks cleaner and, in my opinion, better.

Close-up of a Kurono Tokyo wristwatch with a bright orange dial featuring two black subdials, silver hour and minute hands, and a thin silver second hand. The watch has a date window at the 6 o'clock position displaying the number 26. The dial includes tachymeter and pulsations scales around the edge, with the words "Automatic Chronograph" and "Japan Made" printed on it. The watch case is polished silver, paired with a textured black leather strap.
In addition to the striking color, the dial text has been slightly simplified.
Kurono Tokyo

Pricing and availability

The Vermilion Chronograph Shu is gorgeous in photos, but I’ll be surprised if I ever get the chance to see one in person to confirm its beauty. That’s because the watch is a boutique exclusive that’s only available to purchase in person at the brand’s Kurono Tokyo Aoyama salon in Japan and Kurono Tokyo Shanghai salon in China.

The watch will go on sale on August 22 for 598,950 Japanese yen, including taxes, which as of this writing converts to roughly $4,065.

Chronograph wristwatch with a bright orange dial featuring two black subdials, silver hour and minute hands, and a date window at the 6 o'clock position. The watch has a polished silver case and a black textured leather strap. The dial includes tachymeter markings around the edge and the text "Kurono" and "Automatic Chronograph" printed on it.Kurono Tokyo

Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph Shu

Specs

Case Size 38mm
Movement Seiko Cal. NE86 automatic chronograph
Water Resistance 30m
, ,