An Iconic Panerai Watch Enters Uncharted Territory (in a Good Way)

The combination of material and case size on the darkly dazzling GMT should pop on a wider range of wrists.

Close-up of a black BiTempo watch face showing the number 6, date window, and textured crown guard.

Published 2 hours ago

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As a budding Paneristi, I was stoked to check out the Panerai’s Depths of Time exhibit at their flagship NYC store earlier this month.

Perusing a selection of early, decades-old dive watches under glass, I could not help marveling at how big they were.

Black Panerai Luminor BiTempo wristwatch with white markers and stitching on black leather strap. — The Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 combines premium design and materials with a widely appealing 40mm case.

Interestingly, even as the technology has improved and components have shrunk, that particular superlative continues to be associated with the luxury tool-watch brand.

Its dynamic new diver, however, should appeal to a wide variety of wrists. Behold the first-ever ceramic Luminor case sized at 40mm, brought to life in the Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460.

On the case

It does not take an expert to surmise that this case is exquisite, incorporating the unmistakable Luminor aesthetic into a more compact, muscular form.

Equally notable is the use of ceramic, which has become a staple of Panerai’s high-performance watches thanks to its blend of light weight and laudable durability, as evidenced by its resistance to high temperatures, corrosion and scratches.

Black Panerai Luminor BiTempo wristwatch with a black leather strap and white stitching on a black background. — The ceramic construction extends even to the unmistakable Panerai crown guard and lever.

The design, highlighted by multiple rounded surfaces, and material combine with meticulous manufacturing to ensure superlative water resistance.

Panerai takes care to point out that extensive R&D goes into reinforcing exposed and delicate parts, such as the lugs, so that these do not become failure points.

Close-up of the back of a black Panerai Luminor watch with visible mechanical movement and black leather strap. — Every element of the watch has been engineered to withstand depths of 300m and beyond.

This attention to detail also extends to the trademark crown guard and lever, which are also rendered in ceramic.

While the watch is rated to 300 meters, Panerai’s testing subjects it to a pressure 25% greater than that figure, raising the rugged appeal whether you actually dive or not.

More to love

With such a high bar set by the case, can the rest of this new Luminor live up?

It certainly appears to, led by the brand’s signature sun-brushed dial, its equally black countenance starkly contrasted by the luminous numerals and markers in white Super-LumiNova X2.

Black Panerai Luminor BiTempo wristwatch with black leather strap and white stitching on a black background. — The watch comes on a black calf leather strap; an additional black rubber strap is included.

The beating heart, meanwhile, is the automatic P.900/GMT movement, a compelling caliber backed by a 3-day power reserve.

Visible through a smoked sapphire crystal open case back, it boasts a balance wheel oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a stop-second function enabling precise time setting.

Back view of a Panerai Luminor watch with visible mechanical movement, black leather strap, and ceramic case back. — The automatic P.900/GMT movement is clearly visible through the smoked sapphire crystal open case back.

As the watch’s name suggests, there’s also a GMT complication with a 12-hour display harkening back to early 2000s Panerai watches and boosting the appeal for globe-trotters.

On a related note, though Panerai watches are now made in Switzerland, the dial features an inscription nodding to the brand’s heritage: “BiTempo” is Italian for “dual time.”

Availability and pricing

The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 is available at boutiques (and e-boutiques) now, priced at $15,800.

Black Panerai Luminor BiTempo wristwatch with black leather strap and white stitching, featuring a date window and dual time hands.

Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Panerai P.900/GMT automatic
Water Resistance	~300 meters

$15,800 at Panerai

About the Author:

Now managing editor, Steve has served in a variety of roles with GP since 2019. Having previously written and edited for such publications as Men’s Health, Men’s Journal, Esquire and ESPN, he enjoys covering a range of topics — but mostly those pertaining to cycling, snow sports, pocket knives and motos — and dreams of a utopian world in which everyone’s bike seat is at the proper height.

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