An Iconic Military Watch Gets a Fascinating, Never-Before-Seen Dial Update

From California to Beijing.

Close-up of a wristwatch with a black dial, beige hour markers, blue hands, and a brushed metal case on a dark background.

Add Gear Patrol as a Preferred Source on Google

By Brad Lanphear

Published 4 hours ago

·

If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

The California dial originated as a remarkably simple fix for a problem plaguing watch designers.

Around the outset of World War II, Rolex introduced the Zerographe, a military tool watch featuring an innovative new dial design. To maximize legibility under strenuous conditions — like war — the hour markers on the upper half of the dial were Roman numerals, and those on the lower half were Arabic numerals.

Vintage-style wristwatch with a brushed metal cushion case, black dial, mixed Roman and Chinese numeral markers, and dark leather strap. — The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 replaces the Arabic numerals on the lower half of the dial with Chinese numerals.

In the 1940s, Rolex produced a dive watch for Panerai to fulfill a contract with Italy’s Navy, the Regia Marina. Dubbed the reference 3646, it was the second watch known to feature The Crown’s innovative “error-proof” mixed-numerals dial.

Panerai remains widely associated with the California dial, and now the watchmaker is celebrating the Lunar New Year with the Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088, which remixes the iconic reference 3646 by replacing the Arabic hour markers on the lower half of the dial with Chinese numerals.

Wristwatch with a square brushed metal case, black dial with vintage-style numerals, and green leather strap worn on a wrist. — The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 has a 45mm Brutino steel cushion-shaped case.

This novel take on one of Paneri’s most iconic watches is designed for the Chinese market, with a global release planned for early next year, and is limited to only 300 pieces worldwide.

It is powered by Panerai’s Caliber P.5000 hand-wound movement, which features an eight-day power reserve, lending itself to the watch’s name.

A faithful homage

Aside from some faux vintage finishing and the altered hour markers, the Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 is a faithful reproduction of the iconic Italian naval diver. One significant difference is that the 45mm cushion-shaped case is 2mm narrower than the original reference 3646.

Close-up of a brushed stainless steel wristwatch with a black dial, blue hands, and a gray suede strap. — The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 dial is topped with a domed sapphire crystal.

It features a sterile dial with a thin railroad minute track, horizontal dash markers at three, six and nine o’clock, and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock.

Just as with the original, the hands are blued, but not by flame. Panerai creates a burnished blue finish through a controlled oxidation process.

The printed hour markers and hand inserts are coated with beige Super-LumiNova X1 that creates a faux patina look.

Square brushed metal watch with black dial, beige numerals, blue hands, and green leather strap with white stitching. — The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 comes on a brown leather pin-buckle strap.

The cushion case, wire lugs and signed crown are made from Panerai’s Brutino stainless steel, which creates an aged look by hand-brushing away a black PVD coating. The dial is topped with a domed sapphire crystal.

The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 comes on a brown leather strap with white stitching and a steel pin-buckle strap.

Availability and price

Panerai’s celebratory Radiomir 8 Giorni “Chinafornia” PAM02088 hits the Chinese market in late November, with a broader release throughout the Asian market in December.

The brand plans to introduce the watch to the United States, Europe and the Middle East in January, shortly before the Lunar New Year — presumably by reserving some stock of the minuscule 300-unit supply for those markets.

Square silver watch with black dial, beige Roman and Chinese numerals, blue hands, and dark green stitched leather strap.

Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni China PAM02088

Specs

Case Size	45mm
Movement	Panerai caliber P.5000 hand-wound
Water Resistance	100m

Learn More

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

Want to stay up to date on the latest product news and releases? Add Gear Patrol as a preferred source to ensure our independent journalism makes it to the top of your Google search results.