This Cult-Favorite Futuristic Brand’s New Watch Is Surprisingly Classical

It is amazing what a new strap and bezel can accomplish.

Close-up of a watch face with a textured brown dial, a single hand pointing near the 1 o'clock position, and a black bezel with raised markers. The watch strap appears to be made of brown leather.

By Brad Lanphear

Published September 11, 2025

·

Updated September 11, 2025

If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

How do you convert one of the most progressive and futuristic watch designs into a perfect suiting accessory?

According to The Armoury co-founder Mark Cho, the answer is scale and texture.

A close-up of a wristwatch with a rose gold dial and a polished silver bezel featuring ridged edges. The watch has a unique design with two white hands, one on the main dial and one on a smaller inner circle marked with minute indicators and a hand icon. The strap appears to be dark brown leather with visible stitching. The background is a matching brown color. — The Type 9 The Armoury is the smallest iteration yet, with the titanium case measuring 39mm.

The new Pressence Type 9 Armoury, designed exclusively for the Hong Kong and New York-based tailor and menswear shop, is groundbreaking for both brands.

Since its founding in 2010, the Antwerp-based watch brand has become admired for blending innovative functionality with modern art. However, the brand has never approached suiting and formalwear, a domain reserved for traditional dress watches.

A wristwatch with a minimalist design featuring a round, metallic rose gold dial and a smaller inner circle with hour markers. The watch has a dark brown leather strap and a shiny, ridged bezel. The hand wearing the watch is holding a glass with a textured pattern, resting on a dark marble surface with yellowish veins. The person is wearing a white shirt cuff. — The unprecedented Type 9 dial works with suiting in this color scheme.

“The Armoury pushed us to consider proportions and details we would never have explored alone –smaller scale, more classical decoration and colors associated with traditional watchmaking,” says Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, in a press release.

The collaboration reimagines the Type 9, notable for the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System, which isolates the hour hand in a rotating panel within the independently rotating minute panel, seamlessly interlocked in a hemispherical dial.

A wristwatch with a rose gold dial and a polished silver bezel featuring ridged edges. The watch has two white hands: a long, slender one on the main dial and a shorter one on a smaller sub-dial positioned near the 2 o'clock area. The watch strap is dark brown leather. The background is a textured dark fabric. — The Type 9 dial isolates the hour hand and minute hand on a convex hemispherical dial.

The mesmerizing dial is operated by a customized caliber ROCS 9 automatic movement, built on an ETA caliber 2892/2, packing a 36-hour power reserve. The dial plates rotate on four ball bearings as they turn in unison.

Formally progressive

Ressence and The Armoury abstracted design elements from mid-century dress watches to layer over the Type 9. The most striking choice is the salmon dial color.

Back view of a Ressence wristwatch with a black leather strap. The watch case is metallic with engraved text reading "RESSENCE," "THE ARMOURY," "1/20," and "TURN SLOWLY | MADE IN SWITZERLAND." The background is warm-toned with light reflections creating a pattern around the watch. — The rotating caseback is double-signed with the Ressence and The Armoury logos.

Each dial plate is made from grade 5 titanium with a PVD coating. The hour hand and minute hand plates have a fine glittering texture, while the hour ring has a brushed metallic finish.

The white hands and minute track are imbued with Super-LumiNova that glows green.

The chocolate brown suede strap does half the work of converting the Type 9 to a classical dress watch.

Ressence

A chocolate brown suede two-piece strap perfectly complements the salmon dial while providing a vintage gravity that has never appeared on a Ressence watch. It has a polished titanium pass-through pin buckle.

It never fails to amaze me how much a strap can impact a watch’s vibe. The chocolate brown suede strap does half the work of converting the Type 9 into a classic dress watch.

Remember the titanium

The Type 9 Armoury uses the same 39mm titanium case as previous models but is topped with a new bezel design that completely alters the watch’s appearance.

Close-up side view of a polished silver watch case with a ridged bezel and a brown leather strap attached. The watch face is partially visible with a light-colored dial and minimalist hour markers. The background is plain white. — Even with the domed sapphire crystal, the Type 9 Armoury is only 11mm thick.

To achieve Cho’s vision, Ressence created a fluted bezel akin to those found on vintage Rolex Datejust references, but scaled to match the dial.

The retro bezel design appears new and interesting with the Tye 9’s flattened dimensions, measuring only 11mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal. A fully titanium case and dial also make the watch incredibly light, weighing only 39 grams, including the strap.

Wristwatch with a minimalist design featuring a rose gold dial, no numbers, and two white hands—one on the main dial and one on a smaller sub-dial. The watch has a dark brown leather strap and a polished silver bezel with ridged edges. The wearer is dressed in a blue shirt and a brown textured sweater. — The Type 9 Armoury is one of the most progressive dress watches ever designed.

Cho and the Ressence design team took on an ambitious task, but the result is an impressively refreshing take on the Type 9 and one of the most progressive dress watches ever designed.

It is safe to say that the mission was accomplished.

Availability and price

The Ressence Type 9 Armoury is available exclusively from The Armoury, online and in the New York and Hong Kong shops, for $19,000.

It is an extremely limited edition of only 20 pieces.

Watch with a polished silver bezel and a smooth, copper-colored dial featuring two white hands. The dial includes a smaller circular sub-dial with white markings and a hand icon. The strap is made of brown suede leather with visible stitching.

Ressence Type 9 Armoury

Specs

Case Size	39mm
Movement	Ressence caliber ROSC9 automatic
Water Resistance	Splash resistant

$19,000 at The Armoury

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.