Timex Outdoes Itself Again. The Brand’s New GMT Is Ridiculously Good

Less than one month ago, Timex launched its new high-end sub-brand, Timex Atelier. The brand, which is meant to represent Timex’s take on luxury, debuted with a single model: a luxury diver called the Marine M1a.

That watch is almost certainly the most impressive model Timex has ever produced, and even at its $1,000 price tag, the first batch sold out quickly (you can currently place a preorder for the next batch).

But Timex Atelier isn’t resting on the laurels of its inaugural success. Instead, the brand launched a new model over the weekend at the Windup Watch Fair in New York — and it’s even better than the first.

Dual Timex

Timex

The second Timex Atelier model is a GMT, and it shares a lot of DNA with the Marine M1a. Dubbed the GMT24 M1a, the new travel watch shares the same basic case, dial and bracelet as the diver, but with a few important differences.

The stainless steel case remains in the same style as on the diver, with hollowed-out crown guards and its distinct skeletonized sides revealing a black IP-coated mid-case. It’s been downsized a bit for the GMT, however, shrinking from a 41mm diameter down to 40mm and thinning out a bit from 13mm to 12.7mm.

Timex

The lug width remains 20mm, which allows Timex to use the exact same stainless steel bracelet and black rubber strap as before. Both are quite nice, with the bracelet featuring skeletonized links for visual cohesion with the case. The bracelet also features a unique system that allows you to remove links without the use of any tools, and it boasts quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes.

The strap is fitted with a quick-release system, too, and it’s curved to perfectly fit the case with no gap. It closes via a branded deployant clasp and utilizes a keeper-free design for a clean look on the wrist.

Timex

The dial is exactly the same as before, with only the text at 6:00 updated. It remains finished in black enamel with a circular-brushed stainless steel ring around the edge and applied, Super-LumiNova-filled indices.

The lume-filled dauphine-like handset and lollipop seconds hand also remain, though the GMT sees the addition of a fourth hand for tracking the second time zone. It’s an orange-colored lance and is also lume-filled.

Timex

The biggest aesthetic change is found on the bezel. While the diver had an external rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, the GMT gets an internal, non-rotating bezel. It sits under a new box-shaped sapphire crystal and looks quite dynamite in person.

The 24-hour scale is fully lumed, and a minute track sits outside of it, uniquely angled so that it’s almost easier to read from the side. The minute hand doesn’t come close to reaching it, so legibility is hindered a bit, but it adds a toolish, instrument-like vibe to what is a pretty elegant-looking watch overall.

Movement-wise, Timex Atelier has once again gone in an unconventional direction. Following up on the Marine’s use of a movement from Catena, a company I’d never even heard of, the GMT24 uses an engine from Landeron. I’m certainly familiar with Landeron, but I can’t think of another watch using a GMT movement from them. The manufacture, in its vintage form, was mainly known for its chronographs, but the modern incarnation is more of a generic Sellita competitor.

The calibre in question is the Landeron 24, which is a Swiss-made, 28-jewel automatic that runs at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 40 hours. It’s an ETA 2824 clone, which means the fourth hand is independently adjustable and not the local hour hand, making this a “caller” GMT. The movement normally has a date, but there’s no date on the GMT24, so I’m guessing the crown has a ghost position. Finally, the movement is decorated with some perlage and blued screws and is visible behind and exhibition caseback.

Timex

Pricing and availability

Having seen the GMT24 M1a in the metal, I can confirm that it is indeed impressive. The box crystal over that enamel dial is quite striking, and the skeletonized case really brings something unique to the table. Between the GMT and the diver — both of which I’ve handled — I’d take the former. But both are quite nice and will probably change your perception of Timex for the better.

Given the addition of a complication while practically every other element goes unchanged (save for water resistance, which drops from 200m to 100m), the GMT24 is a bit pricer than the Marine. It lists for $1,350 on the rubber strap and $1,450 on the bracelet. Both are available now directly from the Timex Atelier website.

Timex

Timex Atelier GMT24 M1a

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Landeron Cal. 24 automatic GMT
Water Resistance	100

• $1,350 at Timex Atelier

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