Tudor’s More Affordable Explorer Alternative Just Did What Rolex Won’t

You must choose between the dark side and the light side.

Close-up of a stainless steel wristwatch with a cream dial and black numerals on a red background.Tudor

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They say you never forget your first love, and for me, that’s the Rolex Explorer I. More specifically, the Explorer reference 1016, which solidified the design language for the line when it debuted in 1959.

It is the watch that made me fall in love with watches and will always be my vintage grail. But Rolex’s not-so-little brother just released the best modern alternative with an update to its own explorer’s watch.

Two Tudor Ranger wristwatches with stainless steel bracelets, one with a black dial and the other with a beige dial, on a textured brown surface.
Tudor debuts the first 36mm Ranger since the 1980s (left) alongside a new Dune White dial color (right).
Tudor

To be fair, Tudor’s new 36mm Ranger is really a return to its original form. The Rolex imprint introduced the Ranger in 1967 as part of the Oyster Prince collection, and it eventually became its own collection in the 1980s.

The Ranger was offered as a more affordable alternative to the Rolex Explorer, mimicking many of its design elements. It had the same steel Oyster case and bracelet, a black dial with beige printed hour markers and a simple dash minutes track.

Matte black Tudor Ranger wristwatch with beige numerals and stainless steel bracelet on brown leather.
The new Ranger 36mm case size matches that of the iconic Rolex Explorer 1016.
Tudor

Outside of the different movements used, Tudor’s mountaineering watch differentiated itself by replacing the Mercedes hour hand with the now-signature arrow hand, and the circle lume dot on the lollipop seconds hand with a rectangle. Additionally, a numeral hour marker matching the 3, 6 and 9 replaced the triangle hour marker at 12 o’clock.

The Ranger line was discontinued in 1988 and went on to develop its own mythos and fan base parallel to Rolex’s Explorer I. And even though Tudor revived the collection briefly in 2014 and permanently in 2022, it hasn’t matched the original dimensions and feel until now.

Size matters

The original Prince Oyster Ranger reference actually had a 34mm steel case. With its 36mm proportions, Tudor’s new “Goldilocks” update is once again borrowing from the Rolex Explorer 1016.

Stainless steel Tudor Ranger wristwatch with black dial, beige luminous hands and markers, and metal bracelet.
The new Ranger collection has a red-tipped seconds hand.
Tudor

Aside from the shrunken proportions, the new 36mm Ranger is identical to the 39mm revival introduced three years ago. It uses the classic Oyster case, has the Tudor rose etched into the crown and is topped with a domed sapphire crystal.

The smaller case offers the same 100m water resistance, secured by a screw-down crown. It also runs on a nearly identical manufacture caliber MT5400 automatic movement, which is slightly smaller than the MT5402 in the 39mm case, but functionally the same.

Side view of a brushed stainless steel watch case with a textured crown against a red background.
The 36mm Ranger has an 11mm thick case.
Tudor

Both COSC-certified movements feature a silicon balance spring, are accurate to within -2/+4 seconds per day and have a 70-hour power reserve.

The printed hour markers and hand inlays used Beige Super-LumiNova.

The sands of time

Of course, there is one more striking visual update debuting alongside the Ranger’s 36mm case. Tudor now offers a sandy beige dial color called Dune White, which is being marketed as a desert alternative to the mountaineering black dial.

The Explorer I only ever came in black, so Tudor is giving fans something Rolex never offered.

Tudor Ranger watch with beige dial and green fabric strap with red stripe on textured brown surface.
The new Prince collection is available on a green pass-through fabric strap with a pin buckle.
Tudor

The Dune White dial features a coarse texture, with the hour markers and minutes track printed in black. The hands are also coated in a matte black finish. To compensate for the color change, lume dots are aligned with each hour marker along the minutes track.

Just like the black dial, Dune White is available in both 36mm and 39mm. All four references are offered on a tapered steel Oyster bracelet or a green woven textile pass-through strap with a steel pin buckle.

Stainless steel Tudor Ranger wristwatch with cream dial and black numerals on a textured brown fabric.
The Dune White dial has a coarse texture.
Tudor

Tudor has been inching — or, should I say, millimetering — closer to the Ranger that vintage fans desire since 2014. The initial Heritage Ranger was 41mm, had a red seconds hand and the wrong case shape. The 2022 revival got the look right but was still too large.

Now, fans of vintage Rangers and Rolex Explorers from the 1960s and 1970s have a modern, relatively affordable alternative — compared to the ~$13,000 starting price for a vintage Explorer 1016 — that gets the vibes just right. At the same time, the Dune White Ranger offers an entirely new look that remains in line with the collection’s heritage.

Availability and price

The new Tudor Ranger collection is available now from Tudor and authorized dealers. The 36mm reference M79930 is available in black and Dune White for $3,700 on a steel three-row bracelet and $3,350 on a fabric pass-through strap.

The 39mm reference M79950 is available in the same colors for $3,825 on the bracelet and $3,475 on a fabric pass-through strap.

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