This Watch Technically Has No Dial, So Why Can’t I Stop Staring at Its Dial?

Whatever it is I’m looking at, I like it.

Close-up of a black Ulysse Nardin watch case with a textured crown featuring an anchor and the letters "U N." Visible inside the watch are black gears and copper-colored granules, highlighting intricate mechanical details. The watch has a sleek, matte finish with a slightly curved design.Ulysse Nardin

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Despite the fact that Ulysse Nardin first opened its doors back in 1846, the Swiss watchmaker’s best-known line of watches didn’t arrive until 2001.

That was the year UN debuted the Freak, a revolutionary watch that rethought time-telling with an innovative display featuring no dial, no hands and no crown, with the movement itself acting as the time display. The watch was also the first to use silicon components in its escapement, a practice which has since become widespread across the luxury watch industry.

In the quarter-century since the Freak’s launch, Ulysse Nardin has continued to expand the model line as its flagship watch, including by introducing the “entry-level” Freak X in 2019. The Freak X is a bit less extreme than other versions of the Freak in that it does feature a traditional crown, but it still maintains the dial-free, hands-free display of the original.

Ulysse Nardin has now unveiled its latest take on the Freak X, and its “dial” — which, technically, isn’t a dial — is among the most stunning I’ve ever seen.

Black wristwatch with a textured black strap, featuring a round dial with intricate mechanical details and a sparkling copper-colored background. The watch face displays visible gears and a partially skeletonized design, with the brand name "Ulysse Nardin" at the top. The watch is positioned on a curved, metallic copper surface against a dark background.
Ulysse Nardin’s “entry-level” Freak has never looked better.
Ulysse Nardin

Crystal Gold Persuasion

Currently, UN’s Freak line is divided into three tiers. The Freak X is the most “affordable” (I put this in quotes because it still starts around 30 grand). The Freak One is the most faithful to the original. And the futuristic Freak S sits atop the line with its starship-like dual escapement.

All of them use the same basic concept to tell time. In place of a traditional dial, there is a rotating plate with a marker that effectively acts as the hour hand, as the plate takes 12 hours to make one full rotation around the dial. Suspended above the plate is a flying carousel containing the silicon escapement. It zips around the dial once every 60 minutes and is suspended on a bridge that acts as the watch’s minute hand.

There’s no true dial or hands, because parts of the movement act as both. But since the hour disc fills the visual space where a dial would normally go, UN is able to flex its creative muscles in how it finishes this component, leading to all sorts of unique looks for the Freak.

Close-up of a Ulysse Nardin wristwatch featuring a textured, glittering bronze dial with black and rose gold gear accents. The watch has black skeletonized hour and minute hands, a black outer ring with rose gold hour markers, and a black case with a textured black strap. The crown displays the Ulysse Nardin anchor logo.
The watch’s rotating hour disc is made of crystallized ruthenium that’s been coated with rose gold PVD and black varnish.
Ulysse Nardin

On the Freak X Crystalium, the hour disc is made of ruthenium — a metal closely related to platinum but ten times rarer — that has undergone a unique vapour-deposition crystallization process that took UN years to perfect. This results in a frosted, crystalized material that’s impossible to replicate, making each Crystalium disc wholly unique. The disc is then treated to a rose gold PVD coating along with hand-applied shading in black varnish to create a miniature work of art.

Ulysse Nardin previously launched a Freak S with a purple Crystalium hour disc last year as a 10-piece limited edition, but this marks the first time the striking, futuristic material has made its way to a Freak X. While still an exclusive, expensive watch, the new watch is much cheaper and more accessible than last year’s sold-out Freak S WOS Centenary Exclusive, which was limited to just 10 pieces at $163,500 each.

Close-up of a luxury wristwatch with a metallic case and a textured black strap. The watch face features a striking purple glittery background with intricate mechanical components visible, including gears and rotating elements. The hour and minute hands are bold and angular, with white accents for visibility. The watch has a modern, industrial design with the word "FREAK" engraved on the strap attachment near the case.
UN debuted the Crystalium material last year on the decidedly more expensive and exclusive Freak S WOS Centenary Exclusive.
Ulysse Nardin

The Crystalium display is the star of this Freak X, but the rest of the watch is no slouch, either. The 43mm case is made of black DLC titanium, and the watch’s “hands” and hour markers are black as well, providing the perfect contrast to the sparkling, rose gold hour disc. The watch is mounted on a ballistic-textured black rubber strap with rose gold stitching to further complement the Crystalium.

Like other Freak X watches, the movement is the in-house UN Cal. 230, which is self-winding and boasts a power reserve of 72 hours. 214 total components comprise the movement, including the escape wheel, balance wheel and hairspring, all three of which are made of silicon and are produced in-house at the brand’s dedicated silicon lab.

A hand holding a small, circular, glittery watch dial with two crescent-shaped cutouts and a black, angular component attached inside one of the cutouts. The background is blurred, featuring warm lighting and metallic surfaces.
Each Crystalium hour disc is one-of-a-kind and impossible to replicate.
Ulysse Nardin

Pricing and availability

The Freak X Crystalium may not technically have a dial, but semantics aside, this is one of the most striking dials I’ve ever seen. The watch is limited to 50 pieces and is priced at $45,200. You can register your interest in procuring one on Ulysse Nardin’s website.

Black wristwatch with a textured, glittery copper dial featuring visible mechanical gears and components. The watch has a black leather strap with stitching and small copper accents near the lugs. The brand name "Ulysse Nardin" is displayed at the top of the dial. The hour markers are simple copper lines, and the watch hands are black with a skeletonized design.Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium

Specs

Case Size 43mm
Movement Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-230 automatic flying carousel
Water Resistance 50m
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