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Adidas’s Military-Born Sneaker Proves Minimalism Doesn’t Have to Be Boring

The brand’s latest renditions of the classic German army trainer prove that utilitarian design can still be full of character.

Adidas BW Army shoesAdidas

By Jack Seemer

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Unlike most Adidas sneakers, the BW Army could belong to any number of brands.

While the shape and style match that of the ever-iconic Samba, the three stripes on the side of the shoes make way for a pared-back design that says little about its provenance.

Light gray Adidas sneaker with a cracked texture on the upper, featuring the classic three stripes design, gray laces, and a brown rubber sole with the Adidas logo embossed on the side.
Branding is more subtle on the BW Army, which drops Adidas’s iconic three stripes.
Adidas

Even the sole of the shoe does away with classic Adidas branding. In place of a logo, wearers will find the words “BW-Sport 265.”

Sole of a shoe with a textured pattern featuring triangular and wave-like shapes. The center has a rectangular label with the text "BW-Sport 265." The sole is a light brown color.
Even the sole swaps out the logo for text that simply reads “BW-Sport 265.”
Adidas

That said, the BW Army is no less authentic to Adidas than any number of archival silhouettes, including the Samba, Gazelle and Stan Smith.

The design itself is known as the GAT (short for German Army Trainer). And while any number of brands have tried their hands at one — perhaps none more famously than luxury fashion house Maison Margiela — Adidas has history on its side with this one.

The brand actually supplied trainers to the West German Army throughout the ’70s and ’80s, and they probably looked something like the latest renditions available for civilian use.

Close-up of the heel and side of a black Adidas sneaker with a textured, cracked leather upper and a light brown rubber sole featuring the Adidas logo and trefoil symbol embossed on the side. The sole has a patterned tread for grip.
The latest renditions of the BW Army shoe turn cracked leather into a showstopper.
Adidas
Close-up of the front part of a sneaker featuring a cracked white leather texture, light gray laces, detailed stitching, and a light brown rubber sole with a triangular pattern on the edge.
The original design featured suede overlays, which make way for more distressed leather.
Adidas

Already available overseas, the newest variants of the BW Army arrive with cracked-leather uppers that give the shoe a broken-in look from day one.

Previous installments also featured textured leather to add visual appeal to an otherwise plain design.

However, it makes up the entirety of the upper on the latest two colorways, replacing suede and smooth letter overlays, for a shoe that’s both minimal yet full of character.

Low-top Adidas sneaker with a textured black and white cracked pattern upper, light gray laces, and a gum rubber sole featuring the Adidas logo embossed on the side.
The shoe is available in black (picture) or white.
Adidas

Availability and pricing

The latest BW Army drop comes in two colorways, black or white.

According to pricing in Japan, where the shoe is already available for purchase, both come with a small upcharge compared to previous versions of the shoe.

US shoppers can expect a price tag around $150 when they arrive Stateside later this year.

About the Author:

Jack Seemer is the executive editor at Gear Patrol, with over a decade of experience in product journalism. He currently reports on a wide range of topics, including footwear, watches, EDC, cookware and more.

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