Field Watches Don’t Get Any More Elegant than This Mid-Century-Flavored Version

It’s a tux redux.

Close-up of a stainless steel wristwatch with a beige and black dial and a metal bracelet against a yellow background.Serica

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If you’re in the market for a field watch, you’ve got plenty of options around $1,000 or below.

If you want a classic, then Hamilton makes plenty of variants of the Khaki Field, and Seiko has a few different takes on the Alpinist. If you’re after a more modern take, then Nodus’s Sector II Field or Formex’s Field Automatic should fit the bill.

And if you prefer something that truly looks like no other field watch you’ve ever seen in your life, well, then you should be looking at the Ref. 6190 from French indie brand Serica.

The third generation of Serica’s original watch, following the WWW and the Ref. 4512, the Ref. 6190 is unique, to put it lightly.

Its sleek 38 x 10.4mm stainless steel case combines Omega-like lyre lugs with a Patek-ish broad bezel that’s vertically brushed on the top and polished on its sides. It features a bold arrow handset and classy applied indices in a unique layout on an unbranded dial.

Serica’s field watch doesn’t look like any other field watch I’ve ever seen, and now the watch has gained another unique visual attribute by revisiting and reinventing a classic mid-century dress watch style.

Stainless steel wristwatch with black and beige dial and metal bracelet on a wooden surface.
Serica is bringing back the tuxedo dial, but now how you remember it.
Serica

Tux redux

Tuxedo dials feature concentric circles that alternate between black and white, creating a dramatic contrast that absolutely pops on the wrist. They were big from the 1930s through the early ’60s, with the most recognizable examples coming from Swiss luxury brands like Universal Genève and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Back in 2022, Serica introduced a tuxedo dial to its Ref. 4512. The watch was a stunner, but its black-and-white enamel dial proved difficult to produce, so production was very limited.

But apparently, Serica has solved its production issues, because it has brought the tuxedo back to its field watch. And it’s even more striking than before.

Close-up of a stainless steel wristwatch with a black and beige dial, luminous markers, and a metal bracelet held in a hand.
The brushed hands from Serica’s earliest field watches make an unexpected return on the TXD.
Serica

Rather than going with a classic black-and-white tuxedo again, Serica has chosen a softer combination of black and beige polished enamel for the dial for a unique look. The beige portion extends to the individual minute markers, too, which have also been moved to the edge of the dial for a cleaner look. This bleeding of beige creates a complex aesthetic made all the more impressive when you remember that this is a bicolor enamel dial.

The indices, which are hand-applied, remain stark white (and lume-filled), providing greater contrast for enhanced legibility and, as Serica states, preventing the watch from venturing into “fauxtina” territory. The 6190’s signature handset — with its broad arrow hour hand, obelisk minute hand and lollipop seconds hand — has been brushed for greater visual interest.

Outside of the dial’s makeover, the rest of the Ref. 6190 TXD remains as tough and adventure-ready as ever. The water-resistance rating clocks in at 200m, the double-domed sapphire crystal boasts an anti-reflective coating and the Swiss-made SoProd Cal. M100 automatic movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer.

Silver metal wristwatch with a beige and black dial worn on a wrist with a dark brown sleeve.
This might be the classiest field watch you can buy.
Serica

Pricing and availability

I have a problem with Serica. See, I really want to buy one of the brand’s watches, but every time they come out with a new one, it usurps the one I thought I wanted to add to my collection. First, I wanted their Travel Chronometer. Then the Parade. Now I’m eyeing the 6190 TXD. It’s a problem.

Kidding aside, this is a killer release. It adds a touch of old-school dressiness to what is already a very classy field watch, and it does so in a way that feels contemporary, original and very Serica.

While not a limited edition, the Ref. 6190 TXD is limited in its production to the tune of only 150 watches per year, so it will still be quite rare. The watch comes on Serica’s steel Bonklip bracelet, though the watch will also fit on the brand’s recently released Expedition Bracelet, an intriguing integrated woven and folded steel mesh number that sells separately for $415.

As for the Ref. 6190 TXD, it’s priced at €1,190 (~$1,387). U.S. pricing hasn’t been announced yet, but it’s safe to say the TXD will cost more than the standard 6190, which goes for $1,294. The watch will be available to order on December 12 on Serica’s website.

Stainless steel wristwatch with black and beige dial, large arrow hour hand, and expandable metal bracelet.Serica

Serica Ref. 6139 TXD

Specs

Case Size 38mm
Movement Soprod Cal. M100 automatic
Water Resistance 200m

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