Levi’s Iconic Trucker Jacket Gets a Maxed-Out Japanese Alternative

Its almost double the weight of a typical Levi’s Trucker Jacket.

Dark blue denim jacket collar with orange stitching and a leather label featuring a face illustration.Blue Owl

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There is a direct correlation between denim weight and durability. However, as these two factors increase, so does the time and struggle required for a break-in period.

Most brands, including Levi’s, choose denim with a 10 to 12-ounce weight — measured by square yard — because it offers all of the textile’s coveted properties — durability, breathability and sick fades — without putting up much of a fight. Even jeans and jackets marked as heavyweight typically weigh in at around 14 or 15 ounces.

Dark indigo denim jacket with contrast orange stitching and buttoned chest pockets worn over a white shirt.
The Elephant 14 mirrors Levi’s Type III Trucker Jacket design.
Naked & Famous

Then there is the Elephant 14 Denim Jacket from Naked & Famous, built from 20-ounce Japanese-milled raw selvedge denim. This burly beast executes Levi’s iconic Type III design, which the brand now refers to simply as the Trucker Jacket, at the highest level.

Levi’s debuted the now-ubiquitous Type III design in 1962, distinguished by two inset chest pockets with spade button flaps, two vertical tapering seams on each chest panel and doughnut rivet buttons. It has since been replicated by countless brands and is arguably the most popular jacket design in history.

Back view of a dark blue denim jacket with orange stitching worn by a person.
The Elephant 14 has a flat back panel with a shoulder yoke.
Naked & Famous

For comparison, most Levi’s Trucker Jackets use 12 to 14-ounce denim, depending on the wash. So why would anyone want to double the weight of a perfectly good jean jacket?

As I mentioned earlier, the heavier the denim, the more durable it is. Meaning this Naked & Famous raw selvedge 20-ounce monster is as close to indestructible as denim apparel gets. Anyone who buys this jacket will need to include it in their will.

Gettin’ dirty

There is another reason that denim enthusiasts, in particular, would be drawn to a 20-ounce denim jacket. Denim weight is controlled by the thickness of the yarns and the tightness of the weave, and denser denim creates more intriguing fades.

Close-up of dark blue denim jacket with orange stitching and silver buttons on a white shirt.
The Elephant 14 denim jacket has signed donut rivet buttons.
Naked & Famous

Adding to the intrigue, not only is the 20-ounce denim used by Naked & Famous extraordinarily dense, but it is also woven with yarns that retain their natural brown color before getting rope-dyed with indigo. As a result, when the indigo rubs off with age, it exposes light brown “whiskers.”

This property has earned this fabric the nickname “Dirty Elephant Denim,” and the base color, combined with its weight, results in truly unique fades. But you’re going to have to earn them.

Roughin’ it

I’ve committed the masochistic act of breaking in raw denim more times than I care to admit, but I’ve never subjected myself to anything heavier than 14.5-ounce jeans before. Breaking in the Elephant 14 Denim Jacket will likely take five or six wears to relieve the stiffness, and another 10 before the fabric starts to feel soft.

Dark blue denim jacket with contrast orange stitching and silver buttons worn over a white shirt.
Breaking in 20-ounce denim is not fun.
Naked & Famous

A trick that has worked for me is to soak the garment in cold water, let it air dry for an hour or so, and wear it around the house still damp for a few hours. It’s not very comfortable and obviously shouldn’t be done in cold weather, but it takes the edge off much quicker than just wearing it.

While this jacket isn’t for the faint of heart, the indigo juice is certainly worth the squeeze.

Availability and price

The Naked & Famous Elephant 14 20-ounce Raw Selvedge “Dirty Elephant” Denim Jacket will be available from Naked & Famous on January 15 for $359. The Canadian apparel brand ships to the United States for a flat fee of $10, plus taxes and duties.

However, Seattle-based retailer Blue Owl has the jacket in stock now for $360, and American shoppers will avoid customs charges.

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