Timex’s Favorite Collab Partner Has a New Muse — and Its Best Watch Yet

Todd Snyder and Aera agree that beautiful form follows strong function.

Close-up of a black dive watch with a rotating bezel, orange second hand, and "D-1 AUTOMATIC 300M" text on the dial.Aera Instruments

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Todd Snyder, the designer, has remarked on multiple occasions that he enjoys working with brands that possess an expertise in certain categories he could never replicate. He could never make a better dress shoe than Alden, for example, so he has worked with the Massachusetts shoemaker since he ran J.Crew Men’s in the 2000s.

That modest deference has made the New York-based menswear meastro a notable name in the watch community. A long-running partnership with Timex has yielded some of the American watch brand’s best releases of this century.

White AERA D-1 automatic dive watch with orange second hand and textured white silicone strap.
Todd Snyder helped streamline the D-1 Diver with a cleaner dial and two monochromatic color schemes.
Aera Instruments

Snyder has also worked with notable indie brands like Unimatic, Weiss and the young Swiss watchmaker Aera Instruments. The designer first worked with Aera in 2024 through his Woolrich Black Label collection, and the collaboration has now been renewed under his eponymous brand.

The Aera x Todd Snyder D-1 Diver offers a refined and pared-down version of the watch brand’s signature diver. The foundational influence of diver designs from the 1950s remains, but the overall look has been further minimized and given a neutral revamp.

Two wristwatches, one white and one black, with round faces and rubber straps, placed side by side on a dark surface.
The collaboration D-1 Diver comes in two color options.
Aera Instruments

The collaboration features two watches in nearly opposite monochromatic color schemes inspired by Snyder’s time trekking across Iceland.

Both feature a matte black DLC coating on a 44mm titanium case and bezel frame, with the “Blackout” reference using a black dial, bezel insert and strap, while the “Whiteout” has those elements in white.

Dishing it out

When creating the D-1, which debuted in 2022, Aera drew on the same mid-century influences that have underpinned dive watch design for the past 20 years, but modernized the form enough to feel fresh.

Black dive watch with orange second hand worn on a wrist above a pencil sketch of the same watch.
The D-1 Diver has a 44mm case.
Aera Instruments

For example, the triangle-dot-dash hour markers invented by Rolex are present, but with rounded-off edges and made from 3D-block Super-Luminova. The brand logo at 12:00 is a matching material, which is gray for this collaboration, and glows green in low light.

However, the most remarkable feature of the D-1 is the “dished” dial, which replaces the two-piece dial plate and rehaut with a single piece that curves up around the edge to meet the curved sapphire crystal in an almost elliptical form.

This collaboration removes a minutes track found on previous D-1 Diver references, printed on the dial’s curved edge like a chapter ring. The absence of lines allows the dial’s uncommon architecture to sink in.

Black dive watch with glowing green markers and hands, orange second hand, and black rubber strap.
The hour markers and dial logo are 3D block Super-Luminova, with matching lume on the bezel.
Aera Instruments

A ceramic bezel matches the dial with a matte white on the “Whiteout” and black on the “Blackout.” The 60-minute dive track, with a fully graduated 15-minute segment, is fully lumed, including an orange triangle pip.

Meanwhile, an orange lume dot in the crown matches the pip on both references.

Moving forward

As stated above, the 43mm case and coin-edge bezel frame are titanium with a matte black DLC coating. This is a substantial upgrade over the standard steel D-1 Diver, and it weighs just 76 grams without a strap.

White wristwatch with black bezel and white dial held by a hand over a black surface.
Both references come on a matching two-piece rubber strap with fitted ends and a DLC-coated titanium pin buckle.
Aera Instruments

Snyder and Aera are firm believers that form should always follow function, so naturally, the D-1 Diver boats 300m water resistance. It is also powered by a respectable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which beats at 4Hz and has a 41-hour power reserve.

Both references come on a matching two-piece rubber strap with fitted ends and a DLC-coated titanium pin buckle. But personally, I think either color would look better on Aera’s Moon Grey NATO strap.

Availability and price

Snyder sat down with Esquire Creative Director, self-accused “watch nerd” and Aera contributor Nick Sullivan for a conversation about the design and inspiration of this D-1 Diver collaboration. It can be viewed on the watch brand’s YouTube channel below.

The Aera x Todd Snyder D-1 Diver will be available at 10 AM on February 10 from Todd Snyder and Aera for $2,898.

Both colors are limited to just 25 pieces each, so the watch will likely sell out instantly. The brands also offer email signups to receive a reminder as soon as it becomes available to purchase.

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