A Beloved American Brand Confirms Giant Chinos Are Here to Stay. It’s Not J.Crew

These, in fact, are your granddad’s chinos.

Black leather loafers with a small gold emblem worn with tan trousers against a blue background.Buck Mason

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If you ever take a look at Renaissance portraits, you’ll notice that the subjects are always wearing voluminous clothing, overflowing with layers of fabric. At the time, exotic fabrics were expensive, so packing as many yards as possible into an outfit was a flex on par with rocking a diamond-encrusted watch today.

Which is why Buck Mason’s Big Chino would be a hit in fifteenth-century Europe. The wide-leg, high-rise cut is inspired by the 1940s, by way of the 1990s, and represents the polar opposite of the slim fit that dominated the 2010s.

Brown straight-leg trousers paired with black belt and dark brown loafers on a natural outdoor setting.
The Big Chino has a wide leg and a high rise.
Buck Mason

Given the cyclical nature of the fashion industry, the comeback of giant-fit chinos was inevitable. J.Crew led the charge a few years back, a progressive move made by their recently resigned men’s creative director, Brendan Babenzien.

Now, the look is sold everywhere from affordable retailers like Uniqlo to avant-garde luxury labels like The Row. But the clearest indication I’ve seen that the look has moved past the trend phase into widespread adoption is Buck Mason’s endorsement.

Close-up of a person wearing tan pants with a black leather belt and a white shirt tucked in.
The waistband of the Big Chino is designed to sit at the top of the hip bones.
Buck Mason

Few brands have as firm a grasp on the menswear zeitgeist as Buck Mason. The Los Angeles-based brand tactfully translates progressive fashion trends to a mainstream audience, grounding everything in an always-relevant mid-century aesthetic.

The new restock of Buck Mason’s Big Chino is a clear indication that the demand is out there and the look is here to stay. And if you’re embracing the admittedly comfortable wide fit, this is the best place to start.

Looking high and wide

Buck Mason always nails the mid-century American aesthetic because the design team goes to great lengths to replicate surviving vintage pieces. The Big Chino is a spot-on reproduction of US Military issue slacks from the post-WWII era.

Back view of beige pants with welt back pockets and a black belt worn by a person.
The Big Chino has a “full top block,” meaning it starts wide at the hip and runs straight down the leg.
Buck Mason

The difference, compared to slimmer pants from the past 15 years, is felt as much as it is seen. The rise is so high that the broad waistband sits at the top of your hip bones and runs just under your belly button, a feeling most men aren’t used to.

This was the norm during the 1950s and 1960s, when the American workwear and Ivy style genres that strongly influence modern menswear were codified. Both of which were heavily influenced by the military apparel that a majority of American men brought home after serving.

Tan cotton chinos with a button closure and belt loops laid flat on a white background.
The Big Chino is made with stone-washed Japanese twill.
Buck Mason

The Big Chino has a “full top block,” meaning it starts wide at the hip and runs straight down the leg. It provides ample mobility and, once you get used to the feeling of the waistband, is remarkably comfortable.

Where most people go wrong with wide-fit pants, and this includes most brands selling them, is the length. Buck Mason understands that a leg opening this wide should sit right at the top of the shoe, leaving little to no break, and avoiding a sloppy puddle of fabric collecting around the ankles.

Black leather penny loafers worn with beige wide-leg trousers.
The Big chino has a wide leg opening that should sit flat atop your shoe.
Buck Mason

The Big Chino is made from mid-weight, stone-washed Japanese cotton twill. It is true to the source material and has a softened feel found on vintage examples.

Availability and pricing

I’m a stubborn elder millennial who will wear my slim-fit jeans to the grave, but I appreciate a wider cut chino because it looks more refined. That said, the Big Chino is too wide for my taste, but it is the best oversized, mid-century fit I’ve seen.

The Buck Mason Big Chino is available now from Buck Mason for $248. It is only available in khaki 100-percent cotton Japanese twill.

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