New York is famous for its institutions — places embedded in the collective conscious of the city. Some are museums or parks or monuments; many more are restaurants. One of the city’s favorite eateries, Di Fara Pizza, is found across the river from Manhattan in Midwood, Brooklyn. There, patrons will find Domenico “Dom” DeMarco, the elderly cook responsible for the storied pies, who belongs to what you might call an “older school of thought.” He’s made nearly every pie himself since he first opened shop in the ’60s, moving slowly but methodically through the queue of customers that throng outside each day before the shop even opens. For decades, DeMarco has been heralded as the gatekeeper of New York pizza, even winning the heart of NYC mayor Bill de Blasio. So, on a recent weekday afternoon, we went, we waited and we ate. Was it the city’s best? Hard to say. But it’s up there. And damn, is it good.
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