In the spirit of exploration, we’ve brought back our popular (and completely sold out) series, Timekeeping Selects — a partnership with Analog/Shift, the New York-based purveyor of vintage watches. As before, we’ve done the legwork for you, scouring sources to find cool, unique old watches with impeccable authenticity — all serviced and ready to wear. To mark the new year we’ve invigorated the series with a special twist: this time, each watch includes several handpicked accessories for a complete ready-to-go kit, with each item selected to pair with the watch. Each week, we’ll bring you a new watch across a wide variety of price ranges paired with its matching accoutrement (both vintage and new). Because these watches are more than just ways to tell time — they’re each representatives of a distinct way of life. Say hello to your new carry.
June 19, 1966. Le Mans, France — After 24 grueling hours of auto racing, three Ford GT40s crossed the finish line of the most revered race in Motorsports, the 24 hours of Le Mans. It was the first time in history that an American automobile won the race, and it opened the eyes of the world to the burgeoning force of American Motorsport. The next three years, Ford cars would claim the checkered flag at Le Mans, cementing Ford as an undeniable force in race car engineering and performance.
Ford’s four-year reign at Le Mans created a new cultural milieu: Almost overnight, Americans began paying attention to Motorsport, turning what had been a relatively obscure sport with a cult following into a household enthusiasm. Suddenly, racing was on everyone’s mind, the drivers of the day out-shining even the most dazzling Hollywood stars. Racing was now an American pastime.
The dawn of American racing sent shockwaves through various consumer markets, but few more so than in horology. Heuer, the renowned Swiss manufacturer, had been producing timepieces meant to be mounted on the dashboards of automobiles since 1911. These timers came in an array of models, designed to meet the specific needs of racers and rally drivers. Because of their broad success and brand recognition, Heuer began successfully selling wrist-borne chronographs, with models like the Carrera (produced in 1963 and named for the famous cross-Isthmus race the Carrera PanAmerica) proving wildly popular among pits crews looking for highly accurate and robust chronographs.
In 1969, a tripartite coalition of watch manufactures — Breitling, Hamilton and Heuer — released their collaborative automatic chronograph movement, the “Chrono-matic”, and changed the histories of motorsports and horology in one fell swoop.
This automatic chronograph movement, which came to be known as simply the Caliber 11, became the gold standard for racing chronographs, finding its way into various offering from Heuer, including its already well-developed Autavia line. If you were a driver or a member of a pit crew in the late ’60s or early ’70s, you were likely wearing a Heuer.
Despite the explosion of watch production fueled by the crescendo of American motorsports, the rise of the quartz watch began fraying Swiss manufacturing. By the early 1970s, Swiss companies were already feeling the pinch and were faced with the prospect of joining the trend or being snuffed out by it.
In 1974, Heuer launched a collaboration with Viceroy Cigarettes, offering the popular automatic Autavia Chronograph with slight modifications — a new handset that harkened to Viceroy’s packaging and a tachymeter bezel in place of the original hours/minutes bezel — for $88 and a proof of purchase from a pack of Viceroy cigarettes. The promotion featured revered American race car driver Rufus “Parnelli” Jones and was a huge success, saving Heuer from the fate of many of its contemporaries.
This particular example of the 1163V (V for Viceroy) Autavia is in pristine condition with only the slightest wear marks visible. The original black dial is in excellent condition with no signs of degradation. Its silver brushed Viceroy handset is like new, with matching patinated luminous material. Original crown and case back with sticker still intact.
Autodromo Watch Straps and Driving Gloves
No modern brand captures the essence of motorsports history better than Autodromo. In addition to retailing a collection of racing-inspired timepieces, Autodromo offers an array of unique items plucked directly from history. The two Rallye straps — one black, one red — and driving gloves pair perfectly with the Viceroy, making them an undeniable addition to any racing collection.
GTO London Cuff Links
Drawing inspiration from vintage Ferrari racing, GTO London has created a gorgeous collection of polished automobile-inspired accouterments fit for any modern racing enthusiast. When we saw these cufflinks modeled after the the metal gate shift of a Ferrari 250 GTO, we couldn’t resist.
Vintage Le Mans Racing Division Patch
This NOS patch bearing the colors of Le Mans Racing Division is the perfect way to distinguish the initiated collector from the Johnny-come-lately enthusiast.
Vintage Heuer Trackmaster Stopwatch
This manual-wind track timer comes straight from the annals of motorsports legacy. Used to time laps and pit stops, these highly accurate stopwatches were essential pieces of kit for any crew.
Joshua+Vela Waxed Dopp Kit
Joshua+Vela designs explore the harmony of style and function. They build their bags to last and grow more beautiful with age and wear. Inspired by their materials, they design to highlight the natural surfaces of canvas and leather. From cutting and sewing the canvas to finishing the leather and hammering copper rivets, their bags are made entirely in their San Francisco studio.
analog/shift Watch Pouch
For decades, American servicemen and women have relied on small, durable pouches like this one to hold compasses, medical supplies and ammunition. Hand stitched by Maine-based craftsman and designer Jared Desimio, the analog/shift watch pouch evokes those trusty military pouches and is produced from reclaimed military pup tent fabric. Suitable for carrying one watch plus two or three straps.