Panerai’s Classic Dive Watch Makes the Plunge into the Dress Watch Market

At only 10.5mm thick, Panerai’s latest Luminor is new territory for the brand.

Despite their classy, retro looks, Panerai watches are ostensibly tool watches. Their Radiomir and Luminor lines (currently their only lines), which uphold the legacy of the dive watches the brand made for the Italian Navy back in the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s, feature the brand’s iconic cushion case. As such, these dive watches have been big, bulky and brash. The Panerai Luminor, in particular — for example the Luminor 1950 8 Day GMT is a whopping 17.5mm. For a lot of guys, that’s simply too much watch. It makes sense, then, that Panerai would look to appeal to an audience with more refined tastes by downsizing with the latest member of the Luminor family — the Luminor Due.

Coming in at a mere 10.5mm thick, the brand reports a 40 percent decrease for the new Luminor compared to the original. The Luminor Due is available in two versions, each in two different case materials: a 42mm version with a hand-wound P1000 calibre, and a 45mm automatic, featuring a modified version of the P4000 calibre with a downsized rotor, facilitating the slimmer case. Both sizes will be available in stainless steel and red gold.


But here’s the kicker: while the rest of the Luminor line has carried on its diving heritage with a 300 meter depth rating, the Luminor Due appears to be more delicate, with a depth rating of a mere 30 meters. Granted, it is doubtful that people buying this watch will be exploring the oceanic abyss, but it does make the inclusion of the Luminor’s crown-protection bridge seem a bit ridiculous. Still, for those seeking the classic Panerai looks in a smaller, more comfortable everyday watch, the new Due is a welcome addition to the Luminor line.

Buy Now: $8,100+

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