The watch industry is awash with too much news to cover. Each week, we’ll break down everything worth knowing. This week: MB&F’s avant-garde dive watch, new Royal Oaks, a unique Vacheron Constantin and other updates from SIHH.
The mad geniuses at MB&F have released their eighth Horological Machine, curiously named the MB7. Looking to the sea for inspiration, the MB7 is ostensibly a dive watch — though with a 50-meter depth rating and near-$100,000 price tag, we don’t recommend you treat it as such. The watch features a rotating bezel that circles the entirety of the case rather than sitting atop it and a titanium or red gold case case (your choice), and it comes in at an absurdly large 53.8mm in diameter and 21.3mm thick. The automatic movement itself is vertically built, starting with the tentacle-shaped rotor at the bottom and culminating in a 60-second flying tourbillon at the top, two things every diver will tell you a good dive watch definitely needs.
The Vacheron Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860
As it did with the bonkers Celestia, Vacheron Constantin is flexing its watchmaking muscles with its first-ever grande sonnerie wristwatch, which features an impressive 727 components inside. Further, it combines the functions of a grande sonnerie with a petit sonnerie and a minute repeater in one watch. Only one watch will be made and, rest assured, like many SIHH reveals you probably won’t be able to afford it.
An All-Ceramic Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet’s headlining reveal at SIHH sees an iconic design get a perpetual calendar and a full ceramic makeover. The bracelet alone takes 30 hours to make.
The Royal Oak Chronograph Goes Two-Tone
In addition to its new gold ultra-slim and all-ceramic additions, Audemars Piguet continues to revamp its healthy line of Royal Oaks with updated chronographs. Internally nothing has changed, but the new watch comes in a number of handsome two-tone dials, including two takes on the beloved “panda” color scheme. They look splendid.
Montblanc’s new SIHH 2017 release, the TimeWalker Chronograph UTC, combines a chronograph and a GMT in an all-black design. The price isn’t too bad, either.
In addition to the Chronograph UTC, Montblanc unveiled the Rally Timer, a chronograph that can be mounted on a car dash, caried like a traditional stopwatch and popped on to a leather strap and worn as a wrist watch. Inspired by pre-war Minerva (which Montblanc owns) rally timers, it features an in-house chronograph movement, is cased up in titanium and is very pricy at around $40,000.
A. Lange’s Mechanical Pornography
The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Mérite is a platinum limited edition featuring a split-seconds chronograph, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a fusé and chain.
Affordability Sneaks Into the World’s Most Luxurious Watch Show
At SIHH 2017, high-end brands like Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Montblanc are beginning to embrace the “entry-level” watch.
There’s Also a Cheese Watch
To protest the Swiss watch industry’s lax rule to earn the “Swiss Made” label, indie watchmaker H. Moser made a watch out of Swiss cheese to troll the Swiss watch industry. Really.