The Royal Oak Just Went Retro. It’s Never Looked Better

150 years of Audemars Piguet history led up to this.

Close-up of a luxury Audemars Piguet watch featuring a light blue textured dial with a moon phase indicator and a month subdial. The watch has a brushed stainless steel octagonal bezel secured with hexagonal screws and a crown engraved with the "AP" logo. The dial includes polished hour markers and the text "Audemars Piguet" and "Swiss Made.Audemars Piguet

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This year is a big one for Audemars Piguet, as it marks the 150th anniversary of the Swiss luxury watchmaker. It may be hard to believe, but for the first 97 of those years, there was no such thing as a Royal Oak.

Since the OG integrated luxury sports watch landed like a bomb on the watch world in 1972, the iconic piece has come to dominate the brand’s catalog, to the point where it’s impossible to think of AP without picturing a hexagonal bezel with eight exposed screws.

So it makes sense, then, that the Royal Oak has been central to AP’s ongoing 150th birthday celebrations. Earlier this year, we saw the brand release a revolutionary new perpetual calendar movement in a couple Royal Oaks (and, to be fair, in a Code 11.59, too), a series of Royal Oaks in a new shade of ceramic modeled after the iconic blue color of the watch’s most recognizable Tapisserie dial and a send-off to the old perpetual calendar movement in a resplendent skeletonized version.

Now, AP is at it again, this time debuting yet another new perpetual calendar movement, this time in a watch style the brand has never done before, yet one that feels decidedly old-fashioned.

Rose gold luxury wristwatch with an octagonal bezel secured by eight screws. The dial features a textured pattern with three subdials displaying the day, date, and month, along with a moon phase indicator at the bottom. The watch hands and hour markers are also rose gold, and the crown is engraved with the initials "AP." The bracelet is made of matching rose gold links.
There’s never been a Royal Oak like this before.
Audemars Piguet

Compact calendar

AP has launched two new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models, both with 38mm cases. This marks the first time the brand has ever created a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in this smaller, sweet-spot size, and to do it, AP created yet another brand-new in-house movement.

The new perpetual calendar movement AP debuted earlier this year is the Cal. 7138. Boasting five patents, the automatic movement is notable for its ability to be adjusted entirely using the crown without the need for any pushers. The movement powering these 38mm models is the new Cal. 7136, which is a derivative of the 7138 that utilizes the same five patents and differs only in its exclusion of the 52-week indicator.

Close-up of a luxury Audemars Piguet watch face with a light blue textured dial. The watch features multiple subdials: a date indicator at the top left, a month indicator at the top right, a day of the week indicator at the bottom left, and a moon phase display at the bottom right. The hour markers are silver and rectangular, and the watch hands are silver with luminous insets. The bezel is brushed metal with hexagonal screws.
The new Cal. 7136 movement omits the 52-week scale and boasts a cleaner dial as a result.
Audemars Piguet

Losing the week counter doesn’t really eliminate any functionality from the calendar for most people — you still get the month, day and date — but it does clean up the dial considerably, as there is no longer any need for a center-mounted third hand or a 52-week scale around the dial. As a result, the case can be smaller, as proven with these new 38mm models, which also measure a hair thinner than the larger 41mm models at a remarkable 9.4mm slim.

Outside of the absence of the week complication, the Cal. 7136 works exactly the same as the Cal. 7138. Pull the crown out one position and turn it clockwise to set the date and counterclockwise to adjust the month and leap year. Pull it out to the next position to adjust the time. So far, pretty standard, but here’s where it gets interesting. Push the crown back in one position, and you can now adjust the day and week clockwise and the moonphase counterclockwise, almost like magic.

Rose gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch back with visible intricate mechanical movement, featuring a transparent case back, engraved "Royal Oak," "1 OF 150 PIECES," and "AUDEMARS PIGUET," secured by eight screws and a rose gold bracelet.
A rose gold rotor, balance bridge and barrel bridge add some extra luxury to the decorated Cal. 7136.
Audemars Piguet

Like the Cal. 7138, the new movement features the addition of a 24-hour dial with a red warning area to remind you not to adjust the calendar settings between the hours of 9 pm and 3 am — though AP states that you won’t damage the watch even if you do.

Like the 7138, the 7136 has the symmetrically pleasing layout with Monday and the 1st of the month aligned at the top of their respective subdials, and the numbers on the date indicator all evenly sized and spaced out thanks to a 31-tooth wheel with differently sized teeth.

AP has two versions of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 38mm, one in 18-carat pink gold with a tonally matched beige dial and the other in stainless steel with a light blue dial. Both look spectacular, but the steel and baby blue combination takes the cake for me. That’s a pretty winning combination on any integrated luxury sports watch, but on a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar? It just doesn’t get any better.

Close-up of a watch dial featuring a moon phase complication with a textured gold background and the brand name "Audemars Piguet" elegantly written in black script. The moon phase display shows a detailed moon against a starry blue sky. The dial has a guilloché pattern with concentric circles and a rose gold frame.
The vintage Audemars Piguet logo on the 150th-Anniversary edition is perfectly suited to the smaller 38mm case.
Audemars Piguet

Except, apparently, it does. In addition to the standard versions of these new Royal Oak references, AP has also launched two special 150th-Anniversary editions of the watches. These watches — whose photos are featured throughout this article — both feature the brand’s 150th Anniversary logo engraved on the caseback, but more interestingly, they also swap out the AP logo on the dial for a vintage one inspired by archival documents.

The smaller case size combined with the vintage “Audemars Piguet” script delivers some pretty spectacular vintage vibes, and when you factor in the ultra-symmetrical dial layout courtesy of the new perpetual calendar movement, I’m not sure there’s ever been a Royal Oak that’s looked better than this.

Silver Audemars Piguet wristwatch with a light blue textured dial featuring three subdials for day, date, and month, and a moon phase indicator at the 6 o'clock position. The watch has a brushed metal octagonal bezel secured with screws and a matching metal bracelet. The crown is engraved with the "AP" logo.
The symmetrical layout, retro theming and proportions, and attractive colors make this one of the best-looking Royal Oaks ever.
Audemars Piguet

Pricing and availability

The two 150th-Anniversary editions of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 38mm are fittingly limited to 150 pieces, and their price is available upon request.

It’s safe to say they will cost a bit more than the standard versions of the Perpetual Calendar 38, which are non-limited and feature the modern AP logo on the dial. The standard steel version (ref. 26684ST.OO.1356ST.01) is priced at $110,900, while the gold version (26684OR.OO.1356OR.01) only has its price listed in Swiss francs as of this writing, coming in at CHF 120,000 (~$150,475).

Silver stainless steel Audemars Piguet wristwatch with a light blue textured dial featuring three subdials for day, date, and month, along with a moon phase indicator at the 6 o'clock position. The watch has a distinctive octagonal bezel with visible screws and a matching silver metal bracelet.Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38mm

Specs

Case Size 38mm
Movement Audemars Piguet Cal. 7136 automatic perpetual calendar
Water Resistance 50m
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