Citizen Goes After Seiko with an Ultra-Affordable Automatic Diver

At less than $300, this new tool watch is quite the bargain.

Silver Citizen wristwatch with black textured dial and luminous markers on a red background.Citizen

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Over the past few years, Citizen has made a conscious and significant return to mechanical watchmaking after decades of focusing on its light-powered Eco-Drive quartz movements. This move has not only made Citizen more appealing to many watch enthusiasts, but it has also made the brand a stronger competitor against its eternal rival and fellow Japanese watchmaker, Seiko.

Now, Citizen is taking on Seiko in what may be the latter’s historically strongest competitive area — the budget automatic diver-style watch — with a new automatic diverish tool watch of its own that undercuts the price of Seiko’s popular Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series.

Citizen, like Seiko, knows its way around a dive watch. From the quirky Aqualand to the legendary “Fugu,” Citizen has a long and storied history of underwater timekeeping. So it’s worth mentioning right off the bat that Citizen’s new budget tool watches, while they look like dive watches, technically are not. Like Seiko’s SKX Series, these new watches are classified as “diver-style” watches rather than true divers, as they lack certain requirements.

Now, with that disclaimer out of the way, here’s what Citizen has cooked up to take on the SKX Series.

Silver metal wristwatch with green dial, white markers, and date display on textured surface.
Citizen is coming for the Seiko SKX Series with its new diver-style automatic.
Citizen

Your move, Seiko

The new Citizen NJ022 Series consists of three automatic tool watches with diver-inspired designs. All have an eminently wearable stainless steel case measuring 38.5mm across and just 11.5mm thick, which matches up favorably with the smaller version of Seiko’s SKX Series at 38 x 12.1mm.

The design is classic dive watch, with highly visible lume-filled applied indices consisting of circles, elongated pentagons at 6:00 and 9:00 and a wide triangle at 12:00. There’s a white date window at 3:00, and a classic diver minute track featuring “60” at the top. Dial text is pleasantly sparse, with only “Citizen” appearing under 12:00 and “Automatic” above 6:00.

The dial features a granular texture, providing a bit more visual interest than you’ll get on most SKX Series models, and the handset is bold, with a broad arrow hour hand, fencepost minute hand and arrow-tipped seconds hand, all lume-filled.

Stainless steel Citizen wristwatch with visible automatic movement and metal bracelet clasp.
Citizen’s Cal. 8210 movement is visible through the caseback, and while it won’t win any beauty contests, it at least looks nicer than a Seiko 4R36.
Citizen

The bezel insert appears to be aluminum and is non-lumed, but features a triangle pip, individual hashmarks to 20 minutes, and then dashes every five minutes with Arabic numerals counting off every ten minutes from 20 to 50. It’s a classic diver bezel except for one thing: It’s fixed.

Fixed bezels that look like dive bezels are a pet peeve of mine. Why add all of those markings and a pip if you can’t use the bezel to time anything? But at least Citizen didn’t bother adding knurling to the edge of the bezel, so there should be little temptation to try and turn it.

Powering the watch is Citizen’s Caliber 8210-B21 automatic movement, which features a 40-hour power reserve and a stated accuracy of -20/+40 seconds per day. It’s a pretty basic mechanical movement, but it’s quite comparable to the Seiko SKX Series’ Cal. 4R36, which has a slightly higher 41-hour power reserve but worse expected accuracy at -35/+45 seconds per day.

Silver Citizen automatic wristwatch with textured white dial, beige hands, date window, and beige textured rubber strap.
The most unique version features a mix of gray, silver and gold paired with a taupe textured rubber strap.
Citizen

The NJ022 Series, like the SKX Series, is water-resistant to 100m and lacks a screw-down crown. The caseback does screw down, at least, and like the SKX Series, it features an exhibition window for viewing the movement. The crystals on both front and back are made of mineral crystal.

Pricing and availability

There are three versions of Citizen’s new NJ022 Series to start. The black NJ0221-50E and green NJ0220-52X both come on a three-row stainless steel bracelet equipped with a dual push-button folding clasp. Then there’s the more unique NJ0229-07A, which features a silver dial, gray bezel, gold-tone hands and markers, and a handsome taupe rubber strap.

Now, there’s some good news and bad news here. The good news is the price. The two bracelet models retail for just €249 (~$294), while the model on the rubber strap is ten euros less at €239 (~$282). Those prices considerably undercut Seiko’s SKX Series, which start at $350 and go up from there … especially when you consider how frequently Citizen’s watches go on sale.

The bad news, however, is that the Citizen NJ022 Series is only available in Europe — at least for now. The watches show up on the brand’s European website, where they’re listed as “new,” but they’re nowhere to be found on the American site. Hopefully, that changes soon.

Silver stainless steel Citizen automatic wristwatch with black textured dial and date window at 3 o'clock.Citizen

Citizen NJ022

Specs

Case Size 38.5mm
Movement Citizen Cal. 8210-B21 automatic
Water Resistance 100m

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