Hamilton Salutes America’s 250th Birthday with a Perfect 1970s Field Watch

Technically, its a pilot’s watch, but we’ll get to that later.

Close-up of a silver watch case with a black dial, beige markers, and an olive green fabric strap on a blue background.Hamilton

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In 1969, Hamilton closed its American factory in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and moved all production to Buren, Switzerland. Five years later, the company was purchased by what would eventually become the Swatch Group.

During that pivotal transitional period, the brand continued its long-standing partnership with the American military, providing watches to multiple branches of the Armed Forces. One example that has become iconic among collectors for its unique build and scarcity is the FAPD-5101 navigator’s watch.

Silver Hamilton wristwatch with black dial, white numerals, beige accents, and olive green fabric strap.
The Khaki Field Mechanical 250 is based on the FAPD-5101 navigator’s watch from the 1970s.
Hamilton

In celebration of America’s 250th birthday and in recognition of the brand’s American roots, the Swiss watchmaker created a limited-edition version of the Khaki Field Mechanical, based on the FAPD-5101.

At arm’s length, the new Khaki Field Mechanical 250 resembles many watches found in the regular production line, but a few key differences will draw in enthusiasts like catnip.

The most obvious difference is the size. This mil-spec reissue has a 36mm stainless steel case with a bead-blasted finish, which is 2mm smaller than the modern Khaki Field Mechanical. Only the new quartz version offers a more compact case.

Wristwatch with black dial, white numerals, and olive green fabric strap worn on a wrist.
The Khaki Field Mechanical 250 has a 36mm case.
Hamilton

Ironically, the 36mm diameter was an enlargement of the standard military-issue field watch when the Air Force first adopted it in 1970. The larger case was chosen to enhance legibility for airborne navigators.

Mil-spec

There are some more nuanced features pulled from the archive for America’s 250th. An era-specific acrylic dox sapphire crystal stands in for the sapphire that Hamilton has used for years.

Close-up of a Hamilton wristwatch with a black dial, white numerals, beige accents, silver case, and brown leather strap.
Hamilton’s standard sapphire crystal is replaced with an era-faithful acrylic box crystal.
Hamilton

Compared to the standard Khaki Field Mechanical, the crown does not protrude as far, but it is wider and features a more pronounced fluted grip for easier operation with gloved hands.

One faithful detail that some might find inconvenient is the use of fixed spring bars, which means it can only be worn on NATO and pass-through straps, but this eliminates the vulnerability of standard spring bars.

As for the movement, the FAPD-5101 ran on the Caliber 684, a hand-wound movement developed specifically for that watch, which never appeared in any other Hamilton release.

The Khaki Field Mechanical 250 uses the same Hamilton Caliber H50 hand-wound movement as the standard collection. It offers the standard 80-hour power reserve found throughout the Swatch Group family.

Silver Hamilton watch case back with engraved text and brown leather strap in a hand.
The Khaki Field Mechanical 250 has a special engraving on the steel caseback.
Hamilton

There are a couple of visual details that divert from the inspiration. The FAPD-5101 had a sterile dial with no branding or lettering, but the Khaki Field Mechanical 250 sports a retro Hamilton wordmark on its dial.

Similarly, the caseback is adorned with a lengthy engraving detailing the purpose of this limited-edition release and a few specs.

Availability and pricing

Hamilton’s birthday present to American field watch fans comes with a pair of NATO straps: one olive-green nylon and one brown leather, both with steel pin buckles. A green rip-stop nylon watch roll with brown leather fasteners is included as well.

Green fabric Hamilton watch roll with tan leather straps, green fabric strap watch with black dial, and brown leather strap on a textured surface.
The Khaki Field Mechanical 250 comes with two NATO straps and a watch roll.
Hamilton

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 250 is available now from Hamilton for $725. It is, of course, limited to 1,776 pieces.

Hamilton is offering the same watch to markets outside of the USA with a more generic engraving on the caseback and no leather NATO strap.

Silver Hamilton watch with black dial, white numerals, beige hands, and olive green fabric strap.Hamilton

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 250

Specs

Case Size 36mm
Movement Hamilton Caliber H-50 hand-wound
Water Resistance 100m

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