Seiko’s Deep-Cut Revival Dresses Up with a Stunning Dial Revamp

The dial pattern is inspired by an engraving from Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori.

Close-up of a King Seiko automatic watch with a black textured dial, gold markers, and a stainless steel bracelet.Seiko

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King Seiko was created in 1961 as an in-house competitor to Grand Seiko, which debuted a year earlier.

Each brand operated in one of Seiko’s two factories, emulating the tight-knit horological rivalries of Switzerland — GS in the Suwa facility and KS in the Daini facility — and they pushed each other to produce some of the brand’s finest mechanical timepieces of the 1960s and 1970s.

Silver stainless steel Seiko wristwatch with black textured dial and gold hour markers and hands.
The SJE121 is built on the KS1969, which is based on the cult-favorite 45KCM.
Seiko

As part of its 145th anniversary celebration, Seiko is honoring the prolific early years of King Seiko with the SJE121, a KS1969 adorned with a radial guilloché dial inspired by engraved pocket watches sold by the brand’s founder.

The KS1969 is a reproduction of the King Seiko 45KCM, one of the first watches to house Seiko’s caliber 45 Hi-Beat movement. It is distinguished by an elliptical steel case, similar to the 6306 “Turtle” diver, which it predates by nearly a decade.

Close-up of a silver Seiko KS Hi-Beat watch with black hour markers and a date window at 3 o'clock on a black leather strap.
The King Seiko 45KCM is distinguished by its elliptical steel case Hi-Beat movement.
Seiko

The 45KCM has garnered a cult following for being a 5Hz watch that is both affordable and readily available on the vintage market — you can easily pick one up in good working order for under $1,000. Seiko capitalized on this by reviving the design in 2024 with the KS1969 collection.

Visually, it digs even deeper into the King Seiko catalog by using the feathered 12:00 index and spelled-out dial logo from the sub-brand’s initial releases. However, the major difference is that it doesn’t utilize a Hi-Beat movement. Instead, it runs on Seiko’s perfectly mediocre Caliber 6L35 movement, featuring a 4Hz beat rate and a 45-hour power reserve.

The founder’s touch

The case and bracelet of SJE121 stick to the existing KS1969 design, featuring a 39mm width and a 44mm lug-to-lug distance that sits flat on the wrist. It is topped with a box sapphire crystal that is barely visible in profile thanks to its slim 10mm height.

Silver stainless steel Seiko wristwatch with a textured black dial and gold hour markers and hands.
The SJI121 comes on a retro-style steel bracelet.
Seiko

The crown is signed with a simplified version of King Seiko’s shield logo, which is exhibited in full on the underside with an engraving that mimics the embedded coins found on 1960s King Seiko casebacks.

It comes on a complex and very comfortable steel bracelet pulled from other contemporaneous King Seiko designs. It consists of solid links with flat bottoms and open grooves on top holding tiny connecting links in a way that resembles an escalator.

Back of a silver stainless steel King Seiko limited edition watch with engraved logo and water resistance details.
The King Seiko crown logo is engraved on the caseback.
Seiko

Where the SJE121 stands apart from the existing KS1969 collection is the dial. It has a smoky gray color and a radial guilloché pattern emanating from the center. This is far from the first ornate dial texture to grace the revived King Seiko line, but it is the most stunning one yet.

Seiko copied the pattern from a pocket watch in its museum collection that was engraved and sold by the brand’s founder, Kintaro Hattori. The outer case of the pocket watch, as shown below, features a radial geometric pattern emanating from a raised center.

Round vintage silver pocket watch with textured cover on a black textured surface.
A pocket watch engraved and sold by Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori.
Seiko

Another celebratory flourish is a gilded finish added to the hands, applied indices, date window frame and dial logos. The color perfectly complements the charcoal shade and sunburst effect of the dial texture.

Availability and price

This is one of, if not the best-looking, King Seiko references to emerge since the sub-brand was revived five years ago for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. It seamlessly blends details from two distinct eras of the watchmaker’s history in a way that feels perfectly natural.

The original 45KCM was built for pure timekeeping performance with a minimalist steel and black dial. This homage gives it a dressy dial worthy of the watch’s esteemed heritage.

Silver stainless steel Seiko wristwatch with black textured dial and gold-tone hour markers and hands.
The SJE121 gives the KS1969 a proper dress watch dial.
Seiko

My one complaint is the same one I’ve had since King Seiko came back: no Hi-Beat movement. Grand Seiko and King Seiko developed the Hi-Beat movement family simultaneously through friendly competition. It isn’t fair that the former is hogging the technology today.

The Seiko KS1969 SJE121 will be released in February 2026, along with the other three watches in the 145th Anniversary collection, at a price of $3,100. It is a limited edition of 800 units, which is a small run for Seiko, but it shouldn’t be too challenging to land one if you act fast.

Silver stainless steel Seiko wristwatch with black textured dial, gold hour markers, and date display at 3 o'clock.Seiko

Seiko KS1969 ‘145th Anniversary’ SJE121

Specs

Case Size 39mm
Movement Seiko caliber 6L35 automatic
Water Resistance 50m

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