Unimatic’s Minimalist Dual-Time Tool Watch Gets an Update from Todd Snyder for Under $1,000

Its hard to pick, but this may be the best Todd Snyder x Unimatic collaboration yet.

Close-up of a silver metal watch case with a beige suede strap on a light blue background.

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For a New York-based clothing brand and a Milanese watchmaker, Todd Snyder and Unimatic have a lot in common. Both brands draw strong inspiration from the disparate sources of twentieth-century military apparel and heritage Italian craftsmanship.

The new Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT embodies the overlapping aesthetics of both brands more effectively than any previous release from this fruitful partnership.

Unimatic wristwatch with beige dial, orange 24-hour hand, brushed stainless steel case, and tan suede strap. — The U4 GMT has a minimalist dial with a 24-hour GMT track at the outer edge of the dial.

Unimatic is known for minimalist tool watches, and this iteration of the U4 GMT has just enough detailing to get the job done. The case, featuring a large block fixed bezel, is decorated with only an intense brushed finish.

Working from the outside in, the dial has a 24-hour GMT track alternating between even numerals and dashes, followed by a dash minutes track with lume dots at five-minute intervals and then a 12-hour track of the same format as the GMT track.

Black wristwatch with a matte black case, black dial, white hour and minute hands, and an orange arrow-tipped second hand on a black fabric strap. — The “Night” version is all black except for white detailing on the dial and hands and an orange-tipped GMT hand.

The two-watch collection has a “Day and Night” theme. Day is represented by a creamy off-white dial, a 40mm brushed steel case and a tan suede pin-buckle strap.

Night coats the entire watch in black, even the brushed steel case, with only some white detailing on the dial and hands, as well as the shared orange-tipped GMT hand.

Black Unimatic wristwatch with brushed metal case, bold white hands, orange arrow-tipped hand, and black suede strap. — Both watches come on a suede pin-buckle strap.

Unlike most Unimatic collaborations, including previous releases with Todd Snyder, this U4 GMT features a notably double-signed dial. It’s small, but the esteemed designer’s name is printed right below the watchmaker’s at six o’clock.

Military time

One of the first details that stood out to me was how this collaboration plays with the classic military time format commonly seen on field watches.

Close-up of a Unimatic Todd Snyder watch face with green and orange luminescent hands and markers on a gray dial. — The dial has Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour dots.

Unimatic watches rarely have a numbered hours track, and GMT tracks are typically placed on the bezel. The 24-hour track on the outer rim of the dial has been seen before, but never in conjunction with a printed numeral hours track.

The effect flips the old-fashioned military time, with a smaller 12 to 24-hour scale inside the hours, onto the outside rim of the dial as a GMT 24-hour track.

Both watches utilize Unimatic’s standard skeletonized GMT hand, decorated with an orange tip. The dial is enhanced with Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour dots, which glows green except for the orange-glowing GMT hand.

Black Unimatic wristwatch with matte finish, black dial, white hour markers, orange arrow second hand, and black suede strap. — The dial is topped with a flat sapphire crystal.

As expected with the Unimatic U4 collection, a flat sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown ensure 300m water resistance — although I wouldn’t test that with the suede strap.

This collaboration model is powered by a TMI (Seiko) caliber NH34A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. The “caller” GMT complication allows the secondary time zone to be set independently.

Two wristwatches with suede straps, one beige with a cream dial and one black with a black dial, placed on a plaid shirt and black surface. — The theme of this collaboration is “Day and Night.”

Unimatic has produced an exceptional number of collaborations in 2025, but this is arguably the best one because it reimagines the brand’s foundational inspiration in a way we haven’t seen before.

Rather than injecting a completely new idea, as most other collaborators have, Todd Snyder brings a kindred ethos that refreshed the Italian watchmaker’s core aesthetic.

Availability and price

The Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT is available now exclusively from Todd Snyder for $998.

The creamy off-white “Day” reference is limited to 250 units, and the blacked-out “Night” reference is limited to 150 units.

Silver Unimatic wristwatch with beige suede strap and cream dial featuring black and orange hands.

Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	TMI(Seiko) caliber NH34A automatic
Water Resistance	300m

$998 at Todd Snyder

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

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