One of the Most Utilitarian Dive Watches Just Transformed into One of the Most Beautiful

The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is undeniably cool.

First launched last year at Watches and Wonders, the high-tech diver marked Zenith’s return to the dive watch genre after a decades-long absence with a rugged and angular 42.5mm case rated to 600m and equipped with an integrated bracelet and exchangeable straps.

The Defy Extreme Diver is a tough, no-nonsense tool watch made for extreme conditions. It is decidedly utilitarian and purpose-built. But I wouldn’t exactly call it beautiful. At least, that’s what I thought before Zenith linked up with Topper Jewelers for this seriously stunning special edition.

Topper Jewelers

Glow up

The new diver takes inspiration from bioluminescent wildlife found in the deep ocean, a nod to the deep-diving capabilities of the 600-meter-capable diver, which is equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation dives.

The watch illustrates its inspiration on its dial in two ways, both gorgeous.

First, the dial — which normally features a repeated pattern of Zenith’s vintage star logo — has been given a textural makeover with a series of three-dimensional waves. Sporting a brilliant blue color, the wave treatment gives an entirely different, more elegant vibe to the ultra-modern diver. This elegance is amplified by the absence of any other colors, as all lume and markings on the dial and bezel are pure white.

Topper Jewelers

Look closely, and you’ll notice myriad little specs on the dial. These are actually dots of Super-LumiNova, and when the lights go down, they glow green, mimicking the look of bioluminescent plankton that lurk under the waves in certain areas of the ocean. I’ve never seen a lume treatment quite like this, and it’s quite stunning.

The rhodium-plated indices and hands contain matching green-emission Super-LumiNova, save for the minute hand, which glows blue to match the bezel pip. The rest of the bezel — which was made specifically for this watch in blue ceramic to match the dial — is also illuminated, with orange Super-LumiNova used for every five-minute mark.

Turn the watch around, and you’ll find one more special ocean-inspired treatment. The skeletonized star-shaped rotor, a Zenith hallmark, has been colored bright blue to match the marine-inspired dial and bezel.

Topper Jewelers

As always, the watch’s 42.5mm case and integrated flat-link bracelet are made of titanium, and it includes two straps that are dead-simple to swap in thanks to Zenith’s excellent push-button strap-exchange system.

There’s a white-and-black nylon velcro strap that includes its own end links to work with the integrated system, and a Cordura-effect white rubber strap that looks amazing when paired with the bright blue dial.

The movement, as always, is Zenith’s in-house El Primero Cal. 3620, a three-hand version of the brand’s iconic high-beat automatic chronograph engine. But in this instance, the date function has been removed, resulting in a cleaner dial that’s both better looking and even more purpose-built for diving.

Topper Jewelers

Pricing and availability

This is the best-looking version of the Defy Extreme Diver from Zenith so far, and it’s not even close. The wave-textured no-date dial, the brilliant blue color and the lack of extraneous colors add up to a far more attractive watch than I thought this model was even capable of achieving. The innovative lume treatment is just the icing on the cake.

There’s no question that this is my favorite iteration yet of Zenith’s contemporary dive watch, but it won’t be easy to get. Available exclusively from Topper Jewelers for $12,300 — a $500 premium over the standard version of the watch — the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Bioluminescence is limited to just 50 examples.

Topper Jewelers

Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Bioluminescence

Specs

Case Size	42.5mm
Movement	Zenith El Primero Cal. 3620 SC automatic
Water Resistance	600m

• $12,300 at Topper Jewelers

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