This Upstart Japanese Brand Resurrects a Lost Vintage Watch Style

Now, this is a genuine double-signed watch.

Close-up of a silver Zenith watch with a white dial, blue hour markers, and a blue leather strap against a blue background.Zenith

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In the age of collaborations, where brand names are often slapped together haphazardly for marketing purposes, double-signed watch dials have lost their luster.

In decades past, it symbolized horological designers and artists coming together to create something special, and Zenith is doing its part to restore that legacy. To kick off its new Double Signed series, the esteemed Swiss watchmaker invited Naoya Hida & Co., the most sought-after independent brand in Japan, to reimagine a very important watch.

Silver Zenith wristwatch with white dial and blue leather strap on a wooden surface surrounded by watchmaking tools.
Naoya Hida & Co. redesigned the G.F.J. Calibre 135.
Zenith

Nayoya Hida & Co. isn’t the most obvious choice, but it is a perfect fit for Zenith’s new collaborative watch design series. The Japanese brand, named after its lead designer, is a small workshop that produces around 100 watches per year.

Hida and his team do everything in-house using legacy machines and craft as much as possible by hand. Each year, a catalog is released, and customers can purchase one of a select allotment of each watch before it is produced.

Silver Zenith wristwatch with white dial and blue leather strap worn under a shirt cuff with orange trim.
This special edition G.F.J. Calibre 135 has a 39mm platinum case.
Zenith

Zenith is a much larger, more established brand, but its leadership admires the Japanese watchmaker as a peer, and rightfully so. That respect is evident in the watch placed in Hida’s gifted hands.

Ticking history

The debut Double Signed watch reimagines the G.F.J Calibre 135. Introduced in 2025 to celebrate Zenith’s 160th anniversary, it reproduces the most awarded observatory trial movement in history.

Silver Zenith wristwatch with white dial, blue numerals, and blue textured leather strap on a book.
Naoya Hida designed the dial and straps for this Double Signed G.F.J. Calibre 135.
Zenith

The solid platinum 39mm case remains unchanged, with stepped lugs that taper gently into the rounded case, topped with a small, smooth bezel. It is finished with a mirror polish that emphasizes the precious metal’s distinct luster.

Dialed in

Fans of Naoya Hida & Co. will immediately recognize the dial. Despite the brand being so young and heavily influenced by early twentieth-century Swiss watchmaking, it has established a distinct design language.

The tiered dial plate is solid silver, hand-engraved with an in-house font and index style by Keisuke Kano, the brand’s master engraver. All three time tracks are filled with hand-applied indigo-blue urushi lacquer.

Close-up of a silver Zenith Naoya Hida & Co. watch dial with blue numerals and a blue leather strap.
The solid silver dial plate is hand-engraved with the brand’s in-house font and indices.
Zenith

Rounded hour and minute hands, borrowed from Naoya Hida & Co.’s Type 2C line, are solid white gold, machined and polished by hand. The small seconds hand, in the brand’s trademark shape, is heat-blued steel.

Observing time

Inside the watch, it’s all Zentih, boasting the brand’s most accurate mechanical movement. The hand-wound Calibre 135 is based on a movement of the same name developed in 1943 for observatory competitions, the most prestigious mechanical timekeeping trials of the age.

Close-up of the back of a mechanical wristwatch showing gears and inscriptions, with a beige leather strap and blue stitching.
The decorated Calibre 135 is visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.
Zenith

This COSC-certified movement features a Breguet hairspring, stop seconds mechanism, a variable inertia balance wheel and a double-arrow-shaped regulator. It packs a 72-hour power reserve and is accurate to within 2 seconds per day.

Three of a kind

Gorgeous Japanese craftsmanship extends beyond the lugs, as well. Three quick-release straps are provided with the watch, each equipped with a platinum pin buckle signed with the G.F.J. initials.

Silver Zenith wristwatch with white dial, blue hour markers, subdial, and textured dark blue fabric strap.
The Double Signed G.F.J Calibre 135 comes with a two-piece denim strap from Kaihara mill.
Zenith

All three straps are a deep indigo blue color, executed in different materials. There is a pebbled Himeji Kurozan leather, a silky smooth Wagyu leather and denim from Kaihara Mill.

Availability and pricing

It’s hard to believe that any horological artisans are capable of outdoing Zenith’s 160th anniversary G.F.J. Calibre 135, but the team at Naoya Hida & Co. did it. The brand’s distinct craftsmanship is a perfect complement to the watch’s illustrious history and engineering.

The Zenith G.F.J. Caliber 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is a limited edition of only 10 pieces, priced at $75,000.

Silver Zenith wristwatch with white dial, blue numerals, and blue leather strap.Zenith

Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Naoya Hida & Co.

Specs

Case Size 39mm
Movement Zenith Caliber 135 hand-wound
Water Resistance 50m

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