This Fan-Favorite Dress Watch Gets a Sporty, Dive-Ready Revamp

The Brunswick enters uncharted waters.

Close-up of a Fears wristwatch with a white textured dial, blue accents, and a white woven strap with dark stitching.Fears Watch Co.

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Ten years ago, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived Fears, the watch company founded by his great-great-great-grandfather in 1846.

One year into its twenty-first-century incarnation, the independent British watchmaker introduced the Brunswick, a cushion-shaped watch based on an archival piece from the 1920s. It quickly became the brand’s signature case and went on to house a wide range of dials, but a sporty new iteration is the first to boast 200m water resistance.

Close-up of a Fears wristwatch with a white textured dial, blue hour markers and hands, stainless steel case, and white fabric strap.
The Brunswick 40 ‘Helmsman’ ES is the first watch in the collection to offer 200m water resistance.
Fears Watch Co.

For much of its existence, the Brunswick collection has contained dress watches and elevated all-purpose designs. Fears first expanded the collection into tool watch territory earlier this year with its debut pilot’s watch, and now it’s hitting the open water.

The new Brunswick 40 ‘Helmsman’ ES is not explicitly a dive watch, but positioned as a tool watch for boating and other aquatic activities. It offers the water resistance, durability and legibility of a diver, but there is no rotating bezel.

Silver wristwatch with white dial, blue accents, and white leather strap worn on a wrist near water.
The ‘Helmsman’ has a 40mm brushed stainless steel case.
Fears Watch Co.

Of course, it does bear a subtle resemblance to the Panerai Luminor, one of the most iconic dive watches of all time. But both brands hold equal claim to the cushion case that was popular a century ago, and Fears is clearly charting its own course here.

The ‘Helmsman’ is the first Brunswick to carry Fears’ Endurance Specification (ES) designation, which denotes stronger durability and functionality than the brand’s typical dressy and casual offerings.

Out to sea

The Brunswick dial has been adorned with mother-of-pearl, jumping hours and even modern art masterpieces, but the ‘Helmsman’ is outfitted with the collection’s most pragmatic and sporty motif yet.

Silver stainless steel wristwatch with white textured dial, blue hour markers, and white woven strap with blue stitching.
The Brunswick 40 ‘Helmsman’ ES dial has a grainy bright-white dial with applied hour markers.
Fears Watch Co.

The bright-white dial has a grainy texture for high-contrast legibility against the applied hour markers, featuring numerals at the cardinal points. Each index is cut from solid brass, diamond-polished and finished with a blue PVD coating.

It features the standard Brunswick handset with a central seconds hand, and is encircled by a blue rehaut with a printed 60-second track. The hour hand, minute hand and hour markers are fitted with Super-LumiNova, and the dial is capped with a domed sapphire crystal.

Brushing up

Despite the increased water resistance, the dimensions of the 40mm-wide by 12mm-tall Brunswick case are unchanged. The improvement is achieved with a screw-down variation of the signature onion crown.

However, the typical high-polish finish is replaced by a uniform coarse radial brushing, intended to hide minor abrasions and scratches.

Silver watch case back showing mechanical movement with blue rotor engraved "Fears Watch Co. Ltd" and "Hand Built in England" text.
The Brunswick ‘Helmsman’ 40 ES runs on a La Joux-Perret Caliber G101 automatic movement.
Fears Watch Co.

Inside the case is the same La Joux-Perret Caliber G101 automatic movement found in previous central-seconds, no-date Brunswick references. It beats at 4Hz and provides a 68-hour power reserve.

Fears’ custom-decorated rotor and blued screws are visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback.

Availability and pricing

Thanks to Panerai, a cushion-shaped dive watch is nothing new. Even though Fears insists the ‘Helmsman’ is designed for boating and other water-adjacent activities, it still emphasizes that the Brunswick case looks good with any dial.

The Fears Brunswick ‘Helmsman’ 40 ES is available now from Fears for $4,380. It joins the Brunswick collection as a regular production model.

Silver wristwatch with white textured dial, blue numerals and hands, and white fabric strap with dark stitching.Fears Watch Co.

Fears Brunswick 40 ‘Helmsman’ ES

Specs

Case Size 40mm
Movement La Joux-Perret Caliber G101 automatic
Water Resistance 200m

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