This Surprisingly Affordable Reborn 1970s Dive Watch Is Tougher Than Ever

It just keeps getting better.

Close-up of a black dive watch face with white square hour markers, orange second hand, and "BENTHOS PROFESSIONAL" text.Aquastar

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Since its rebirth in 2020, Aquastar has been churning out faithful reeditions and reimaginings of the dive watches the brand cut its teeth on in the 1960s and ’70s.

Earlier this year, the brand launched the Benthos Heritage II — a scaled-down, up-spec’d version of the company’s flagship mid-century diver that imagines how the original watch might have evolved had it never gone out of production.

Now, Aquastar is once again retooling the classic Benthos 500, this time cooking up a tougher, more purpose-built take on what was already a very legitimate tool watch.

Vintage Aquastar Benthos 500 dive watch with black dial, orange arrow second hand, and black rubber strap on coiled hose.
The original Aquastar Benthos 500 was one of the most purpose-built divers of its era.
Aquastar

Going pro

Aquastar’s latest diver is the Benthos Professional, which the brand says it spent years developing based on feedback from professional and commercial divers. Despite that, it’s not too far removed from the brand’s previous efforts and largely comes across as a hybrid between the original 1970 Benthos 500, the aforementioned Benthos Heritage II and a contemporary professional dive watch.

The watch features the same basic design and case size as the 1970 original. It’s 42mm across the case and 47mm lug-to-lug, but it is slightly thinner than the original at a still relatively beefy 13.7mm thick. This makes the watch feel like a more rugged tool than the Benthos Heritage II, which aimed for more of an everyday-wearable size of 40mm x 44mm x 11.9mm.

Black Aquastar Benthos Professional dive watch with orange arrow hand on black rubber strap, placed on diving gauges.
The new Benthos Professional largely keeps the dimensions and aesthetic of the original Benthos 500 intact.
Aquastar

Still, there’s a lot this watch shares in common with the release from earlier this year. Like the Heritage II, the Professional features a ceramic bezel insert, a case made of 904L stainless steel (the same corrosion-resistant stuff Rolex uses), a dual-crown setup with a helium escape valve at 4:00, Super-LumiNova X1 lume, a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal and a water-resistance rating of 300m, down from the original’s 500m.

Also, like the Heritage II, this Professional eschews the chronograph complication of the original Benthos 500 in favor of a simpler time-only format. However, the Professional gets a better movement, receiving a proper (and these days, rare) ETA 2824-2 Elabore-grade automatic in place of the Heritage II’s Sellita SW200-1, which is basically a 2824 clone.

The watch still gets a genuine Isofrane rubber strap like on the Heritage II, but it’s a new version. Specifically, the legendary strap maker’s VS 1969 reissue.

Black Aquastar Benthos Professional dive watch with black rubber strap on a black case next to a flashlight and a compass.
The watch’s DLC case makes this the toughest Benthos diver yet.
Aquastar

Perhaps the biggest difference between the Benthos Professional and previous iterations on the diver — and what makes it especially tough — is the diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating applied to the case. Not only does this give the watch a stealthy black finish, but it also greatly improves its resistance against scratches.

Pricing and availability

Despite its heritage, the impressive specs, the quality of materials involved, the Swiss-made construction and the use of ETA movement, the Benthos Professional is surprisingly affordable.

The diver retails for $1,590, which seems fair, but it’s currently being offered at a discounted preorder price of just $1,290, which feels like a steal. It’s available to preorder now on Aquastar’s website, with shipping expected to commence in two weeks.

Black Aquastar Benthos Professional dive watch with luminous square markers and black rubber strap.Aquastar

Aquastar Benthos Professional

Specs

Case Size 42mm
Movement ETA Cal. 2824-2 automatic
Water Resistance 300m

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