This Genuine Moc Boot Really Is Made Like They Used To

Rose Anvil and Russell Moccasin Co. team up to create a moc boot like they were made in the 1930s.

Close-up of brown suede boots with beige rubber soles against a gray background.Russell Moccasin Co.

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Even though they look the same at first glance, there is a big difference between a moc toe boot and a moccasin boot.

Moccasin boots follow the lineage and basic construction of Native American footwear, which was adopted by early European colonists. Moc toe boots only mimic the look, missing a key feature and the comfort that comes with it.

Pair of brown suede lace-up boots with white rubber soles on a gray background.
Russell Moccasin Co. has produced genuine moccasin boots since the early 1900s.
Russell Moccasin Co.

Russell Moccasin Co. was one of the first American companies to combine Native American moccasin construction techniques with European boot-making methods. Early examples attached an outsole to a moccasin vamp for enhanced durability.

While contraction techniques and materials have evolved, the principle is the same. Russell Moccasin Co. teamed up with YouTube footwear dissection expert Rose Anvil to pay homage to true moccasin boot heritage.

A true moccasin boot has a vamp that wraps under the foot, creating a sock-like shape that molds to the wearer with time. This creates a more comfortable, customized experience than any standard boot design.

Brown leather lace-up boot with cream rubber sole on a white surface.
The OG Moc is based on a design from 1910. It is a rawer moc boot than most modern examples.
Russell Moccasin Co.

The OG Moc toe is based on the Bird Shooter, a boot developed by the Berlin, Wisconsin, brand in 1910. It is a raw version of the modern moc boots made by Russell and a group of brands from Maine.

The key feature is a double-layered vamp, which has two layers of leather forming the lower portion of the boot, wrapping around the foot like a sock. Even the handful of other brands that still make genuine moc boots, like Easymoc, Rancourt and Yuketen, don’t use double-layered vamps.

Paying homage

Traditional Native American moccasins feature a double layer of leather on the vamp for increased protection and durability, as they lack an outsole. Moccasins from brands like L.L.Bean and Minnetonka are still made this way.

Pair of brown leather moc toe boots with black laces and light-colored soles on a gray surface.
The OG Moc uses an overlap stitch on the toe seam.
Russell Moccasin Co.

Rusell Moccasin Co. and Rose Anvil opted for a double-layered vamp on the OG Moc in acknowledgment of the footwear style’s origins. As the shoemaker describes it, “Two independent layers of hand-lasted leather surround the foot, making it incredibly water-resistant and the ultimate in comfort.”

From the midsole up, the OG Moc replicates the Bird Shooter’s 1910 design down to the bench-made construction, meaning one craftsman is responsible for producing each pair from start to finish. This includes hand-stitching details, such as the overlap-stitched toe.

Close-up of a vintage Russell's Bird Shooter hunting boot advertisement with detailed product description and company address.
A print ad from 1937 for the Russell Moccasin Co. Bird Shooter Boot.
Russell Moccasin Co.

There are a couple of modern updates made to the OG Moc. The top three sets of lace eyelets use speed hooks, and the outsole is a Vibram Christy wedge.

Roughing it

The OG Moc is offered in two leather options. There is a standard grain-out leather selected by Rose Anvil that mimics the look of 1970s moc boots.

Pair of brown suede lace-up boots with cream rubber soles shown from the back and side.
The OG Moc uses a massive pull loop on the heel.
Russell Moccasin Co.

The far more attractive option is the Walnut Timberjack in roughout leather. It is a hairy full-flesh leather, without any layers removed like suede, with a warm mahogany color.

The roughout version does use the same smooth grain-out leather for detailing on the ankle piping and the tongue.

Both leathers are produced by Red Wing’s S.B. Foot Tannery in Red Wing, Wisconsin. Russell Moccasin Co. is one of the few brands other than Red Wing to use this tannery.

Brown suede lace-up boot with cream rubber sole on a gray background.
The roughout leather OG Moc uses grain-out leather detailing on the ankle and tongue.
Russell Moccasin Co.

Fans of modern moc boots, from brands like Red Wing and Danner, should appreciate the OG Moc Toe as the granddaddy of the entire genre, and the link between European and Native American footwear.

Using S.B. Foot leather and a Vibram outsole strengthens the connection for Red Wing fanatics. You can think of the OG Moc Toe as a heritage version of the Classic Moc.

Availability and price

The Rose Anvil x Russell Moccasin OG Moc Toe boot is available now from Russell Moccasin Co. for $900.

Each boot is made to order, and customers must acknowledge a six-month production lead time when placing their order. The availability of supplies limits the collaboration, so once the Walnut Timberjack leather runs out, orders will no longer be accepted.

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