This Stunning Top Coat Is a Vintage Military-Inspired Masterpiece

Like so many pieces of everyday modern apparel, the topcoat originates in military uniforms.

The ubiquitous gentleman’s jacket is a stripped-down, streamlined version of the various greatcoats worn by American and British officers during World War I and World War II.

Todd Snyder

Todd Snyder offers a unique interpretation of a greatcoat in the Italian Wool Officer Coat. It blends details from various branches of the military and civilian garments to create an all-purpose jacket ideal for daily wear.

The foundation of the design follows the vintage greatcoat blueprint with a knee-length body, double-breasted front, back cinch strap, oversized collar and large flap pockets. It is a well-established blend of cold-weather utility and respectable formality.

Todd Snyder

The New York designer added some characteristically elevated charm with a pure Italian wool fabric woven in a solid olive-green herringbone pattern. It is a fabric typically found in blazers or tailored jackets.

An officer and a gentleman

The military greatcoats worn during World War I and World War II evolved from jackets that date back to the early 1800s.

Throughout its various evolutions, the concept remained a double-breasted, collared jacket that provided as much warmth as possible while maintaining an official dignity.

Todd Snyder

Todd Snyder’s take on the officer’s jacket blends the golden anchor buttons worn by the Navy with the olive green color of Army greatcoats. Another Naval element is the vented hand pockets found on pea coats after World War II.

An interesting tweak is that greatcoats historically buttoned all the way up to the neck, allowing the collar to be secured up around the face. The Italian Wool Officer’s coat features buttons only up to the mid-chest, similar to a modern topcoat.

Todd Snyder

The collar can still be secured around the face to fend off the cold, wind and rain, but it does so with a throat latch, much like a trench coat.

Adjustable button tabs on the cuffs are another ornament added by Todd Snyder, which were not used on military greatcoats during the early twentieth century.

Reading between the lines

The elevated fabric of the Italian Wool Officer Coat lends a unique edge, distinguishing it from direct replicas and surviving examples sold by vintage dealers.

It is a 100-percent wool herringbone fabric with subtle, broad vertical stripes created by reversing the direction of the weave.

The mill is not listed, but because the jacket is part of Todd Snyder’s Fall 2025 Runway Collection, it is likely from the prestigious Lyria Mill in Prato, Tuscany.

Todd Snyder

Todd Snyder borrows as much from vintage military apparel as any designer. Still, the Italian Wool Officer Coat represents the esteemed designer’s talent for reimagining tried-and-true garments through a modern and refined lens.

Availability and price

The Todd Snyder Italian Wool Officer Coat is available now from Todd Snyder for $1,498.

That may sound like a steep price for a topcoat without a stitch of cashmere in it, but it’s not bad for the amount of fabric and finishing that goes into a piece like this.

It is significantly cheaper than similar greatcoats from brands like Private White V.C. and Ralph Lauren.

Todd Snyder

Todd Snyder Italian Wool Officer Coat

• $1,498 at Todd Snyder

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