This Japanese Watch Brand’s Dials Look to Beat Grand Seiko at Their Own Game

Each hand-painted dial recreates the light and motion in a specific natural environment.

Close-up of a silver watch with a textured green and blue marbled dial and silver hour markers and hands.Minase

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Switzerland has its fair share of breathtaking landscapes, but when it comes to translating the beauty of nature into watch design, Japan dominates the industry.

Grand Seiko is the first name that comes to mind in the genre, and Citizen is often underappreciated in the field. However, Minase is a small watchmaker founded in 2005, creating dials as stunning as any in Japan.

Rectangular silver watch with a green and blue textured dial and black leather strap with white stitching.
Minase’s Yusai series takes inspiration from connecting with Japan’s natural landscapes.
Minase

Minase collaborated with Tokyo-based artist Towa Takaya to create the Yusai dial collection, which evokes the ever-changing flow of colors in specific natural environments.

Takaya creates original pigments by collecting natural substances from around Japan, like soil, plants and minerals, to recreate the intricate palettes of specific locations. As the brand explains, “Her paintings are an ode to nature, exploring delicate color spectrums and subtle gradations.”

Rectangular silver watch with a blue marbled dial and gray alligator leather strap on a white surface.
The Yusai collection comprises three models, each featuring its own dial color, including the 38mm 7 Windows model pictured above.
Minase

The Yusai collection comprises three of Minase’s existing models, each with its own dial design. It includes the 32mm rectangular 5 Windows, the 38mm rectangular 7 Windows and the 40mm round Divido.

Minase hand-assembles every watch in its workshop located in the cold, mountainous Akita Prefecture. All three Yusai watches are powered by the same ETA caliber 2892-A2 automatic movement, and the steel cases are finished with the brand’s Sallaz hand-polishing technique.

A zen garden

Every watch in the Yusai collection is made to order, and every dial is hand-painted. While each model sticks to the same color palette and landscape inspiration, every dial is an entirely original piece of art, displaying unique strokes and blending.

Rectangular silver wristwatch with a green and blue textured dial and dark brown leather strap on a wooden surface with paint smears.
The dial on the 5 Windows uses blue, yellow and green pigments to emulate a Japanese garden.
Minase

According to Minase, the 5 Windows Yusai is inspired by the “harmony of Japanese gardens.” Tones of yellow and green blend with blues like reflections in a slowly rippling pond.

Looking at the dial, I can’t help but think of Monet’s Water Lilies series. The complex composition of the pigments creates the illusion of movement as they react to light at different angles.

Square silver watch with a textured green and blue dial and a dark brown leather strap.
The hour markers are all connected as one piece that is fitted over the dial plate.
Minase

The unique design of the 5 Windows case and dial features interlocking pieces that can easily be disassembled, fixed or replaced as needed. The hour markers are all part of one piece that fits over the dial.

Floating along

The 7 Windows is a larger, more complex version of the 5 Windows, featuring the same floating round dial within the rectangular case frame, which mimics a window.

Rectangular silver metal wristwatch with a blue textured dial and a linked bracelet band.
The 7 Window uses a range of blue pigments to create the impression of floating in water.
Minase

The 7 Windows Yusai uses a range of blue pigments to create the impression of floating in a vast open space. Takaya’s design is meant to “evoke a feeling of suspension and weightlessness.”

It is undoubtedly a beautiful dial, and when I look at it, I see a night sky filled with stars. Just as with the 5 Windows, the intricate layered pigments play with the light as the watch moves.

Close-up of a luxury watch with a textured deep blue dial and silver hands inside a black metal case.
Unlike the 5 Windows, the hour makers on the 7 Windows do not wrap over the dial.
Minase

It is impressive how a small brand like Minase has found a way to express the beauty of nature on a watch dial that is entirely unlike the methods used by the colossal Japanese brands.

Grand Seiko has a range of techniques to etch and layer its ornate dials, and Citizen decorates washi paper with dyes and precious metal flakes. Minase’s craft is simpler, but no less impressive or effective.

Availability and price

The Minase Yusai dial collection is available now from Minase. The 5 Windows Yusai costs $6,900 on a black alligator leather strap and $8,200 on a Sallaz polished five-link steel bracelet. The 7 Windows and the round dial Divido both cost $7,800 on the leather strap and $9100 on the steel bracelet.

Rectangular silver watch with a green and blue textured dial and black leather strap with white stitching.Minase

Minase 5 Windows

Specs

Case Size 32mm
Movement ETA caliber 2892-A2 automatic
Water Resistance 50m

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