The Apple Watch Designer’s New Watch Is Like the Anti-Apple Watch

No pixels here, just some impressive engineering.

Close-up of a wristwatch with a silver case, black and gray dial, yellow hands, and a light gray silicone strap on a yellow background.Ressence

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Ressence has been at the top of the “Best Mechanical Watches for Apple Watch Lovers” list for a while now, as many of the brand’s designs appear more digital than any other analog watchmaker.

Now, the Antwerp-based brand’s position on my theoretical list is etched in stone with the release of the Type 3 Marc Newson, which, for those unfamiliar, was designed by and named after the designer of the Apple Watch himself.

Round silver watch with black and yellow dial and light gray silicone strap on a pale green background.
Now, Ressence is truly the ultimate mechanical watch brand for Apple Watch lovers.
Ressence

Marc Newson is an Australian industrial designer whose illustrious career has included everything from automotive and aviation design to furniture and art installations.

Creating the Apple Watch’s look was not his first foray into horology, as he had previously designed the divisive, cult-favorite Ikepod watches of the 1990s. That flying saucer case design was an inspiration for Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens, and in a promo conversation, Newson reveals that he recognized common aesthetic values with Mintiens long before they met.

Round silver watch with a light blue silicone strap and a multi-dial gray and black face on a yellow background.
The Type 3 dial uses the brand’s magnetically-powered ROCS dial system and some optical trickery to achieve its “water drop” appearance.
Ressence

In one regard, Ressence is the perfect watch company for Newson to work with because its analog designs resemble a digital screen more closely than any other mechanical watch.

On the other hand, Ressence is revered for pushing the limits of mechanical watch engineering in the digital age and championing the relevance of the craft beyond nostalgia, style and status.

Check your oil

The dial of the Type 3 Marc Newson has a hemispherical appearance, which Ressence refers to as the “Water Drop” effect.

But the actual dial is flat, performing its own wonderful mechanical dance that we’ll get into next. The appearance is actually an optical illusion called refraction, which happens anytime you look at an object in clear water.

Close-up of a round watch with a brushed metal case, black and gray dial, yellow hands, and light blue strap.
The rubber strap is fixed directly to the curved titanium case.
Ressence

The refraction is controlled by the shape of the sapphire crystal dome atop the 45mm brushed titanium case and 4.15ml of a special oil contained within. It creates the illusion that the dial is a constantly shifting painting applied to the underside of the crystal.

The other wonder of physical engineering on display here is the patented ROCS 3 dial mechanism, which features magnetically driven rotating discs. It is powered by a base ETA caliber 2824 automatic movement beneath.

Round smartwatch with a silver bezel, gray dial, and multiple black subdials with yellow hands and indicators.
The ROCS 3 dial displays the time, day, date and oil temperature within the dome.
Ressence

The unorthodox dial displays the hours in the large circle, the large green hand indicates a 60-minute track around the outer rim and the small yellow and black circle is a running seconds. The day has its own dial, and the date is displayed around the outermost edge.

The final circle displays the oil temperature, which is important because the oil expands and contracts with temperature fluctuations. A small pump system located underneath the dial adjusts the amount of oil in the dial chamber, preventing the pressurized system from breaking.

Round silver watch with black and yellow dials and a gray strap worn on a wrist.
The Type 3 Marc Newson has a 45mm titanium case.
Ressence

The dial is also constructed from titanium, decorated with PVD and DLC coatings. It is fully lumed, with every yellow, green and white detail coated in green-glowing Super-LumiNova.

Without a crown, the watch is set using a rotating mechanism on the caseback. The lack of lugs makes the 45mm case size look and wear much smaller.

Availability and price

Nothing displayed on the screen of an Apple Watch is terribly impressive when you take a step back and realize it’s simply pixels. But the dial on the Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson is a marvel of physical engineering — it’s tangible, it’s real.

Unfortunately, this mechanical marvel is much more challenging to acquire than an Apple Watch or even an old Ikepod. It is priced at $54,500, is available for purchase only through authorized retailers and is a limited edition of just 80 pieces.

Round wristwatch with a gray strap and a multi-dial face featuring yellow and white hands and black and gray backgrounds.Ressence

Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson

Specs

Case Size 45mm
Movement ROCS 3.6 module on a ETA cal. 2824 automatic
Water Resistance 1 ATM

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