A Japanese Brand You’ve Never Heard of Just Dropped a Killer Affordable Rolex Explorer Alternative

The Rolex Explorer is arguably the best everyday watch ever made, on account of its wearability, versatile styling and legendarily robust build.

But there is a caveat. Although it’s one of the most affordable Rolex watches you can buy, the Explorer is still a Rolex. Starting at $7,500 for the 36mm version, the watch remains out of reach for many enthusiasts. As a result, some Explorer fans are always on the lookout for new affordable alternatives that fill a similar niche.

Today, we’ve got another one, courtesy of the newest Japanese microbrand on the market, Kiwame Tokyo, which has just dropped an elevated field watch with Explorer vibes for less than a tenth of the price of the real thing.

Exploring Japan

Kiwame Tokyo, which only launched its first watch a few months ago, already has its second with the Explorer-esque Iwao Sumi. The watch was designed as an elevated take on a field watch, and one look at its gorgeous dial and slender profile proves that the brand accomplished its goal.

The black dial features a grained “rock texture” in its center, nodding to its adventurous nature, while a satin-brushed outer ring adds some class. The applied indices sit on this satin ring and are a mix of faceted batons and Arabic numerals, with the latter occupying the Explorer’s iconic 3-6-9 layout, with 12 added in for good measure.

Kiwame Tokyo

The brand name appears on a curved plaque under 12:00, with two lines of dial text at 6:00 calling out two specs the watch shares with most Rolexes, including the Explorer: an automatic movement and 100m of water resistance.

Faceted fence post hands are lumed, as is the seconds hand, which also has a red tip for a flash of color. A sloped minute track adds a toolish aspect to the design, with a triangle at 12:00 uniquely lumed. I’d rather see some lume on the hour markers, but at least there’s lume at 12:00, so you’ll always know which way the watch is oriented. There’s also a very subtle polished metal ring between the dial and minute track for even more visual diversity.

The case is stainless steel and has an attractive bezel that’s vertically brushed on the top with a polished bevel that drops down to a polished side. The tops of the lugs are also polished, while the case sides are brushed. There’s a lot of contrasting finishing here and quite a bit more sparkle than you’d normally get from a field watch.

Kiwame Tokyo

The case is compact, coming in at 38mm across — halfway between Rolex’s two Explorer sizes. The lug-to-lug distance is decidedly wearable, and the case is quite slim at just 9.5mm tall. That’s a side effect of the watch’s engine, a Japan-made Miyota Cal. 9039 automatic, part of Miyota’s acclaimed, slender 9-series movements.

The screwdown caseback is solid, and the crystal covering the dial is an AR-coated sapphire. The crown does not screw down, but you’re still getting 100m of water resistance, so it’s not the end of the world. Lastly, there’s unfortunately no bracelet option, as the Iwao is only available on a black calf leather strap.

Kiwame Tokyo

Pricing and availability

Much to Explorer fans’ chagrin, Rolex has yet to release a lighter colorway of its iconic adventure watch. Kiwame Tokyo is wasting no time in doing so with the Iwao, however, as the watch is also available with a whitish-silver dial with a heat-blued seconds hand — a nice touch at this price. The silver version is called the Iwao Ginkai.

Speaking of the price, the Iwao is decidedly affordable, with both versions retailing for just $690. I haven’t seen the watch in person, but I have seen live photos, and this thing is quite sharp-looking. The watch is scheduled to go on sale on Christmas Day on Kiwame Tokyo’s website.

Kiwame Tokyo

Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Sumi

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movement	Miyota Cal. 9039 automatic
Water Resistance	100m

• $690 at Kiwame Tokyo

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