This Opulent Watch Dial Nails an Unexpected Blend of Popular Styles

Turns out, mother-of-pearl makes a good moon.

Close-up of a watch with a black leather strap, silver case, and a dark starry dial with a large number 3 at the top.Fears Watch Co.

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Over the past year, we’ve seen the triumphant return of jump hour watches, alongside many mother-of-pearl dials and a few aventurine glass dials. We even got an aventurine glass jumping hour dial, courtesy of Bremont.

Now, British watchmaker Fears brings all three elements together to create what is now the most beautiful and captivating member of its flagship Brunswick collection.

Silver wristwatch with a textured central dial, navy blue starry outer dial, date window at 1 o'clock, and blue leather strap.
The Brunswick Jump Hour ‘Celestial’ has a jumping hour and standard minutes hand.
Fears Watch Co.

In celebration of the independent brand’s 180th anniversary, the jumping hour design has gotten an astronomical upgrade, featuring a circular mother-of-pearl center representing the moon, surrounded by aventurine glass to emulate a starry night sky.

The new Brunswick Jump Hour ‘Celestial’ features a 40mm version of the stainless steel cushion case with an onion crown that defines the collection and, to a certain extent, the brand. While the decidedly old-fashioned case, based on archival design from 1924, has predominantly housed modern dials in recent years, this special edition has a more congruent Art Deco vibe.

Silver metal wristwatch with a dark starry dial, mother-of-pearl center, and date window showing number 3.
The Brunswick Jump Hour ‘Celestial’ is available with a blue leather strap or a steel five-link bracelet.
Fears Watch Co.

Lines of varying length emanate from the lunar center, with silver italic script numerals placed at different depths every five minutes. A beveled, rhodium minute hand is aligned with the mother-of-pearl center, creating minimal disruption to the naturally gleaming texture.

Silver wristwatch with a black starry dial and textured silver center, worn on a wrist with a black leather strap.
The calf leather strap is in Fears Blue and matches the tone of the aventurine glass dial.
Fears Watch Co.

The Brunswick jump Hour ‘Celestial’ is available with two strap options, but the choice is clear to me. You can go with a steel five-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links that would look excellent on most watches.

However, this particular watch looks much better on the handmade calfskin leather strap. It is Fears Blue, which is fitting for an anniversary model, but it also perfectly matches the rich blue tones of the aventurine glass dial.

With a little help from a friend

Fears has dabbled in jumping hour complications before, with several limited-edition Brunswick models appearing in the past and one in the current regular production lineup. But the designs were derivative and stuffy compared to the ‘Celestial.’

Silver wristwatch with a textured white center, dark starry dial, single hand, and black leather strap.
The round jump hour window is carried over from previous Brunswick Jump Hour references.
Fears Watch Co.

The round jump hour window at 12:00 and the small beveled minute hand are the only elements carried over from previous Brunswick Jump hour references. This time around, the hour window features a rhodium-plated frame, and the glossy black script numerals are printed on a white-lacquered disc.

To power its jump hour complication, Fears got a little help from fellow British watchmaker Christopher Ward by incorporating the latter’s in-house JJ01 module. It is mounted on a Sellita Caliber SW200 base movement, which is calibrated in-house to COSC standards and provides a 38-hour power reserve.

Back view of a stainless steel Fears Watch Co. Ltd with visible mechanical movement and blue rotor.
The customized movement features a blue signed and finished rotor.
Fears Watch Co.

Additionally, the rotor is customized with a blue finish, Geneva stripes and an ornate Fears logo. Upon purchase, you can opt for a sapphire crystal caseback to display the movement or a closed steel caseback, which the brand will engrave for an additional charge.

Availability and pricing

The Fears 180th-Anniversary Brunswick Jump Hour ‘Celestial’ is available now from Fears for $4,700 on a steel bracelet and $4,500 on a leather strap. It is a limited edition of 75 pieces.

Silver wristwatch with a dark blue leather strap, black starry dial, and a textured white center circle.Fears Watch Co.

Fears Brunswick Jump Hour ‘Celestial’

Specs

Case Size 40mm
Movement Christopher Ward's JJ01 module on a Sellita SW200 automatic
Water Resistance 100m

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