Seiko’s Sleeper Brand Masterfully Merges High Horology and Japanese Craftsmanship

Best of both worlds.

Silver Credor wristwatch with blue hands, Roman numerals, and black leather strap on a blue background.Credor

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This year marks the first time that Credor has presented at Watches and Wonders, the industry’s largest and most influential trade show.

The show, which kicks off on April 14 in Geneva, Switzerland, should be something of a coming-out party for the brand. Like Grand Seiko, Credor is a luxury subsidiary of Seiko. But unlike Grand Seiko, it’s very little known outside of its home territory of Japan.

That’s likely to change once people from all over the world converge in Geneva later this month and see Credor watches up close, for the first time in many cases. Especially since one of the new watches being introduced by the brand at the fair is a tourbillon dress watch that masterfully blends classic Swiss-style high horology with traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

Silver Credor wristwatch with blue hands, Roman numerals, and black leather strap against a blue gradient background.
Credor is ready for its close-up.
Credor

Watches of a feather

At first glance, the Credor Goldfeather UTD Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition looks like a relatively simple dress watch, exposed tourbillon notwithstanding. But look a little closer, and you’ll soon find some very rare and impressive craftsmanship on hand.

Both the dial and movement feature intricate engravings inspired by Japanese tradition and executed by hand, with Credor’s artisans using special tools that have been adjusted to fit into the contours of their specific hands for the utmost precision.

Starting with the silver-colored dial, first, a grinding technique is meticulously applied across the entire dial, giving it a very fine radial pattern emanating from the center that resembles a bird’s feather. Next, the Roman numeral indices are linear-engraved using a tiny chisel that must slowly trace the same line many times over to remove enough material.

Silver Credor Goldfeather watch with blue hands, Roman numerals, visible tourbillon, and dark leather strap.
Three different types of hand-engraving appear on the dial.
Credor

Most impressive of all is the minute track. Inspired by the Japanese engraving technique known as nanako, a special chisel is used to hollow out diminutive, evenly spaced dots around the dial’s periphery.

Flip the watch over, and the level of engraving only intensifies. Visible through a sapphire caseback is the Credor Caliber 6850 hand-wound tourbillon movement. Fine linear engraving emanates from the tourbillon bridge, expanding out onto the next two bridges and stretching to the movement’s outer crescent.

Just like with the Roman numerals on the dial, multiple passes with a chisel, held at a steady angle, must be completed in order to create the proper depth for the engravings. Not only that, but these engravings stretch across four separate elements, meaning they have to be perfectly straight even when their lines are interrupted by the end of one component and the beginning of another.

Close-up of the back of a Credor limited edition watch showing intricate silver gears, blue screws, and a black leather strap.
The movement is also engraved, and to an even more impressive degree than the dial.
Credor

As for the movement, it’s exceptionally thin for a tourbillon at just 3.98mm, and has a power reserve of 60 hours. Accuracy is decidedly unimpressive, however, at just +15 to -10 seconds per day with a low beat rate of 21,600vph. Those numbers are closer to Seiko than Grand Seiko, but I guess Credor is more concerned with beauty and craftsmanship and leaves the precision chasing to GS.

On account of the thin movement, the case is also quite compact at 38.6mm across and just 8.6mm thick. It is made of 950 platinum, because why not, and it’s paired with a blue alligator leather strap equipped with a platinum deployant clasp.

Availability and pricing

By most accounts, Credor ranks above Grand Seiko in the Seiko brand family hierarchy, with its creations meant to represent the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking. As such, all Credor watches are expensive, but the Goldfeather UTD Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition is extremely expensive.

With a platinum case and an in-house tourbillon movement, this watch (ref. GBCF997) was never going to be anywhere near affordable. But the man-hours that have gone into the extensive hand-engraving on the front and back of the watch have pushed the price to stratospheric levels, with an anticipated SRP of $215,000 when the watch launches on August 7.

Even with that lofty price tag, I doubt Credor will have much trouble selling out the watch, considering the brand is producing just 25 examples.

Silver dial Credor Goldfeather wristwatch with blue hands, visible tourbillon, and black leather strap.Credor

Credor Goldfeather UTD Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition

Specs

Case Size 38.6mm
Movement Credor Cal. 6850 manual-wind tourbillon
Water Resistance 30m

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