Winter Wardrobe Tips from a Top Designer

Angelo Urrutia, of Nepenthes and Engineered Garments, shares his tips for curating cold-weather outfits for men.

Henry Phillips

When the winter months bring bone-chilling wind, flurries of snow and freezing temperatures, it’s best to have a plan to dress well — outfits that will keep you warm and look good, too. The key to any cold-weather outfit is layering, and this means great flexibility. As Angelo Urrutia, one of the men behind Nepenthes and Engineered Garments points out, “Most anything can be used, it really depends on the weight of the garment and what you’re going to be doing.” Urrutia has worked for 14 years with Daiki Suzuki at Engineered Garments, which specializes in “American sportswear with a twist to the left,” and the brand won the 2008 CFDA award for Best New Menswear Designer.

Urrutia styled a handful of different looks — featuring garments from Nepenthes, in New York City’s Garment District — that showcase different styles of layering for cold weather. Keeping both style and function as a priority, Urrutia offers these suggestions:

Mix and match lightweight garments. “I am pretty warm-blooded; I try not to weigh myself down with overtly heavy pieces, so I try to have a layering plan where if it gets warmer, I can subtract one and be fine. Really, though, warm garments that are not heavy in weight are the ideal tools. A mixture of a wool jacket/coat and some sort of synthetic piece, either a nylon windbreaker or down alternative like Primaloft works really well.”

For aesthetics, match comfort with an A-line silhouette. “Your individual comfort is what would be best applied. I am not overtly picky about “scratchy” wools, but if you are, there’s that factor. And for silhouette, an A-line works nice for more than two layers while still keeping a tailored look and adding some bulk.”

Layer a nylon coat underneath lightweight wool. “A synthetic typically doesn’t breathe and locks in the warmth if you’re moving around, but it will help in stopping the wind. You don’t have to have a heavy wool on if you’re doing this type of mix, which is nice I think. The drawbacks would be, a noisy or swishy nylon or not controlling your temperature enough.”

Above all, keep it simple. “Streamlining and simplifying but being comfortable is the most important.”

“There is the LT Parka in a nylon polka dot windbreaker fabric, layered in a way as I mentioned above. The added extra pop of the polka dot is a nice texture/pattern peeking out of a more sensible wool jacket.”
Needles Sailor Hat in Indigo Melton $235
Rough & Tumble Block Shirt in Beige Small Polka Dot $349
Engineered Garments Light Parka in Black Polka Dot Taffeta $395
Engineered Garments Dexter Jacket in Gray Wool Bedford Cord $588
Engineered Garments BDU Pant in Charcoal Wool Gabardine $450
Garment District Journal Issue 2 Pin Pack Here

“A cable-knit Interliner that’s been in the EG line over the years works really nice because you don’t have to add the bulk of a full sweater underneath and you’ll have the advantages of an extra layer (plus a hood). I did layer it a bit more aggressively to show it off a bit more.”
Engineered Garments Beret in Black 6W Corduroy $118
Rough & Tumble POB Shirt in Navy Small Polka Dot $220
Engineered Garments Interliner in Dark Gray Cable Knit $260
Engineered Garments Baker Jacket in Black Printed Paisley Wool Flannel $540
Mont Bell TEC Down Pant in Black $175

“There’s nothing like a good merino wool cardigan and we just started carrying one from a brand called Meticulous Knitwear. It’s a simple cardigan that has a really great fit with some nice color blocking and a really great price point.”
Rough & Tumble POB Shirt in Blue/Brown Alternate Stripe $195
Meticulous Knitwear Woodstock Tri-B Cardigan in Charcoal/Gray/Olive $157
Crescent Belts Classic Alligator Belt in Cognac $450
Engineered Garments Willy Post Pant in Dark Gray 13-Ounce Herringbone $450
Golden Bear x  Engineered Garments Trail Parka in Dark Brown Leather

“Lastly there’s the button shawl, another EG staple that can be worn in a lot of different ways. It’s layered here asymmetrically, so you can wear it underneath a blazer and not cause bulk.”
Rebuild by Needles Banded Collar Shirt in Assorted from Flannel Shirt $320
Engineered Garments Button Shawl in Black/Navy Wool Horizontal Stripe $207
Engineered Garments Andover Jacket in Black Worsted Wool Flannel $698
Engineered Garments E-1 Over Pant in Gray Hourglass Quilted Twill $373
Needles Feather Pin V in Assorted

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