Nike Puts a Vintage Spin on an Unlikely Streetwear Darling

New York’s favorite high-end secondhand shop is breathing new-old life into this former soccer cleat.

Pair of brown Nike sneakers with multicolor patterned heel and white soles against a green background.

Add Gear Patrol as a Preferred Source on Google

Published May 19, 2026

·

If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

Whether or not you’d like to credit Macklemore with the rise of thrifting, it’s hard to deny that secondhand shopping is more popular than ever.

Back in 2012 — coincidentally the same year Macklemore released his “Thrift Shop” track — Brian Procell opened up his namesake vintage clothing store in New York’s Lower East Side. But this wasn’t your everyday thrift shop.

Its focus has always been on high-end fashion and rare pieces ranging from Ralph Lauren to Jean Paul Gaultier to vintage band tees.

Procell has since become a beloved staple frequented by celebrities and stylists alike. Designers have used the store as a reference archive for some of their own styles.

Close-up of a brown and multicolor Nike Procell sneaker heel with white midsole and black outsole tread. — The NY-based secondhand store puts a ’70s-inspired spin on the cleat-turned-streetwear sneaker.

Now Procell collaborates with Nike for the first time in seven years on one of the footwear giant’s most curious silhouettes.

Some backstory

Before we dig into the collab, let’s understand some history. Debuting in 2000 as a line of soccer gear, the Total 90 consisted of cleats, balls, jerseys, and even gloves. The name was a nod to the length of a typical match.

An easy way to distinguish this silhouette is by the large “90” emblem on the inner foot.

Nike

Pair of low-top sneakers with a shiny, multicolored plaid pattern, black laces, and white midsoles. — This is Procell’s first Nike collab in 7 years.

Total 90, in its original form, was discontinued by the early 2010s. However, football fans preserved the original cleats in a special place in their hearts. It lived on in some fashion circles, especially during the rise of blokecore.

Nike paid attention and started reviving certain models around 2019 as lifestyle shoes, leading to more consistent releases last year as the Total 90 name celebrated its 25th anniversary.

Following a high-profile collaboration with Palace last year, the sneaker now sees a new vintage look entirely thanks to Procell.

Person wearing cream shorts with green stripes, white Nike socks, and transparent Nike sneakers sitting on a plastic-covered patterned couch. — Procell put a bouclé pattern all over the upper, paying homage to mom’s favorite plastic-covered couch.

Couch potato

The new shoe, dubbed “Heirloom,” is based on the Air Zoom Total 90 III and will catch your eye instantly. Managing to look like something you’d actually find in a thrift shop, Procell employs a bouclé-style pattern all over the upper. The mustard, beige and green plaid color scheme is sealed underneath a clear plastic wrap inspired by old plastic-covered sofas from the ‘70s and ‘80s.

Pair of brown Nike sneakers with multicolor patterned heel collar and white midsoles viewed from the back. — The bouclé print gets accented with the fan-favorite Baroque Brown on the heel and collar.

Black and white outsoles quite literally ground this wild vintage-style variant.

Nike

The new shoe doesn’t veer far from the spirit of other recent models, with angled lacing, a small Swoosh on the outside and an inward facing “90” logo all accented with black.

Procell has its own branding embossed on the outer heel in a glossy Baroque Brown. Underfoot, you’ll find a basic black and white sole to ground (literally) the colorway.

Person wearing orange pants and a dark blue Nike shirt sitting on a vintage wooden TV with blue wall and trophy shelf behind. — The “Heirloom” colorway is perfect for lounging atop vintage CTR televisions.

Availability and pricing

Priced at $125, the Nike x Procell Total 90 “Heirloom” is set to drop May 27 from Nike’s Snkrs app.

Low-top sneaker with a brown, green, and orange checkered pattern, black laces, and a white sole.

Nike x Procell Total 90 Heirloom

$125 at Nike

About the Author: Ethan Brehm is an associate editor at Gear Patrol writing about footwear, watches, spirits, EDC and more. When he’s not shopping for his next G-Shock, he spends his time watching movies and planning a future road trip with his family. He firmly believes CDs sound better than vinyl.

Want to stay up to date on the latest product news and releases? Add Gear Patrol as a preferred source to ensure our independent journalism makes it to the top of your Google search results.