Is This the Best Dress Watch of 2020?

Laurent Ferrier makes some of the finest, most beautiful watches in the world. His new Classic Origin Opaline is no exception.


Laurent Ferrier’s watches are some of the most quietly stunning in the world. After a 30-year career heading up watchmaking for Patek Philippe as their technical director, Ferrier opened his own atelier. Now, in celebration of 10 years since his eponymous brand’s debut, he’s released the new Classic Origin Opaline.

The watch takes the form of a familiar LF case shape, dubbed the “Classic,” produced here in Grade 5 titanium — a first for the maison. Grade 5 titanium is, in addition to being lightweight and ultra-durable, also hypoallergenic. The “ball” crown and general silhouette of the watch should be familiar to LF devotees, though here the case has been enlarged to 40mm.

The dial on the Classic Origin Opaline is pure class, though with its own idiosyncratic touches: a silver-white opaline dial forms of the basis of the overall look, while a slate-grey hour track, burgundy markers, and “assegai”-shaped hands make for a minimalist, highly elegant aesthetic. A recessed sub-seconds counter at 6 o’clock rounds out the classically-inspired design, but if you look closely, you’ll realize that outside the minute track is a scale produced in 24-hours, much as one might find on a military watch. This, when considered together with the 18k white gold handset, titanium case and movement (more on that in a minute), makes for a distinctly modern object.

The handwound cal. LF 116.01 looks distinctly like the type of mechanical movement one would expect in a sci-fi film: micro-blasted, black rhodium-finished bridges cover most of the action, but within the movement is a free-sprung balance, Breguet overcoil, and other precision-improving components that make for 80 hours of power reserve and a pleasant ratcheting feeling when you wind the crown. (If you’re into that sort of thing.) Hand-polished edges and mirror-polished screw-heads assure you that you’re getting the most for your ~$30,179.

The Classic Origin Opaline ships on a light brown Barbialla calf leather strap with a titanium pin buckle, rounding out an asethetic that, if you ask us, makes it one of the best dress watch debuts of the year — if not the best. It should be available for purchase in late July, should you be so inclined.

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