Doxa’s Most Affordable Dive Watch Gets a Gorgeous Smoky Dial Update

When in Rome…

Close-up of a stainless steel wristwatch with a black bezel and water droplets on the bracelet.

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By Brad Lanphear

Published March 16, 2026

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Updated March 17, 2026

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Doxa is one of the most beloved and respected brands among fervent dive watch fans because it offers a truly distinctive, instantly recognizable design language, backed by impeccable specs and a respectable heritage.

Bright colors are a crucial ingredient of the brand’s design language, especially the traffic cone orange that has become its signature dial hue. But a new collaboration with an Italian jeweler and watch dealer proves that Doxa can pull off black and white with the best of them.

Silver metal bracelet watch with black bezel and brown gradient dial showing date on a brown textured surface. — The SUB 200 Roma Grande features a smoky gray sunburst dial encircled by a black steel bezel.

Gioielleria Grande, based in Rome, Italy, is the newest addition to Doxa’s Retailer Editions collection of watches designed with and sold exclusively by select watch retailers around the world.

Where past collaborations have offered unique colors, this one goes distinctly monochromatic. It is built on the SUB 200, Doxa’s most affordable and conventional diver.

The entry-point design, which still offers 200m water resistance and runs on a respectable Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic movement, is the ideal template for this handsome, understated Doxa.

Black Doxa SUB 200 wristwatch with white markers and date window on a black fabric strap worn on a wrist. — The SUB 200 Gande Roma has a 42mm stainless steel case.

The SUB 200 Grande Roma has a 42mm stainless steel case with a narrow elliptical shape accented by polished chamfered edges. It features a stainless steel unidirectional bezel with a black sapphire insert featuring a white 60-minute track.

Close-up of a silver watch crown engraved with "GRANDE" on a textured fabric background. — Doxa’s fish logo is replaced on the crown by Grande’s logo.

The screw-down crown is partially recessed, but there is no crown guard. Doxa’s stylized fish logo, typically found etched into the crown, is replaced by Grande’s logo.

Doxa’s signature beads-of-rice stainless steel bracelet, equipped with a push-button dive extension, is provided with the collaboration, along with a smoky gray nylon NATO strap that matches the dial.

Roman smoke

The true appeal of this dressed-up SUB 200 sits under the box sapphire crystal. The sunburst dial, familiar from the standard collection, features a smoky charcoal gray that is no less radiant than its vibrant counterparts.

Close-up of a Doxa Sub 200 wristwatch with a brown dial, black bezel, and black fabric strap on wet stones. — The only dash of color on the entire watch is a red-tipped seconds hand.

The only pinch of color on the entire watch is a red-tipped seconds hand. Fencepost hour and minute hands, along with applied baton indices, are metallic with white Super-LumiNova inserts.

The chamfered date window has a small, white printed frame, and a white dash minutes track runs along the dial’s outer rim.

Doxa is printed at 12:00 and SUB 200 at 6:00. The only addition to the standard dial design is Grande’s logo, which is a stylized view of the Roman Colosseum, printed just below the handset.

Close-up of a stainless steel watch back with engraved text including "GRANDE," "Swiss Made," "Sapphire Crystal," and "Limited Edition 00/50. — Grande’s logo, featuring a stylized view of the Roman Colosseum, is etched into the caseback.

Grande’s full logo is etched into the screw-on stainless steel caseback. Below the logo, each watch is numbered out of the limited-edition 50-piece collection.

Availability and pricing

Aside from the Sharkhunter color scheme offered in most Doxa collections, the brand is known for a bright, sporty appearance. Even the Sharkhunter leans into the 1960s diver motif with Old Radium Super-LumiNova.

The SUB 200 Grande Roma is the dressiest diver I’ve seen from Doxa. The black, white and smoky gray palette is the brand’s equivalent to donning black tie.

Silver metal wristwatch with black bezel and gradient brown dial in a brown and white zippered case. — The SUB 200 Grande Roma comes in a matching travel case.

The SUB 200 Grande Roma is available exclusively from Rome’s Gioielleria Grande boutique and online for €1,590, which currently exchanges for $1,828. It is a limited edition of only 50 pieces and comes in a matching travel case.

Doxa Sub 200 wristwatch with brown gradient dial, black bezel, white markers, date window, and brown fabric strap.

Doxa SUB 200 Grande Roma

Specs

Case Size	42mm
Movement	Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic
Water Resistance	200m

$1,828 at Gioielleria Grande

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

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