This Legendary Dive Watch, Equipped with a GMT, Comes Alive in Deep Water

This dive watch is, ironically, celebrating something you never want to see under the water.

Close-up of a wristwatch with a metal band illuminated by blue light, showing the time around 9:50.

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Published December 8, 2025

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Topper Jewelers, a renowned watch dealer in the San Francisco Bay Area, revived its collaboration with Doxa by applying one of the watchmaker’s coolest dials to its travel diver.

The Great White dial is beautiful on dry land, but it needs to be observed deep below the water’s surface — or in any other lowlight conditions — to really be appreciated.

Silver metal bracelet watch with white dial and blue markings on a vintage map background. — Doxa’s Great White dial is back, this time on a SUB 250T GMT.

Doxa and Topper introduced the Great White dial in 2024 with a limited-edition SUB 300. The argument could be made that the SUB 300, which belongs on the Mount Rushmore of divers, never looked better.

A year later, the monotone, seemingly low-key color scheme is back in the form of Doxa’s flagship travel watch. The SUB 250T GMT, which debuted earlier this year, is based on the older SUB 750T GMT, but scaled down to a more wearable 40mm case.

Silver DOXA SUB 250T wristwatch with white dial and blue markings on a metal bracelet worn on a wrist. — The SUB 250T has a more wearable 40mm case.

The smaller size and mostly white dial create a relatively understated look for the typically bold tool watch brand, but that changes when the lights go out. Borrowing a feature from older White Pearl references, the 250T GMT Great White has a fully lumed dial that glows neon blue.

All aglow

When the SUB 250T Great White descends below the reach of sunlight, or just enters a dark room, the dial glows like a bioluminescent jellyfish. The blue details of the dial are silhouetted, creating crisp legibility for both displayed time zones.

Another novel feature further enhances the legibility of the time. This is Doxa’s first SUB250T GMT reference without a date complication, resulting in a cleaner, more focused dial.

Black metal bracelet watch with glowing white dial and black hands under blue light. — The Great White 250T GMT has a fully lumed dial.

Everything else adheres to Doxa’s distinct design language. The large minute hand extends almost to the dial’s edge, while the hour hand is differentiated with a much smaller size. The seconds hand is easy to read thanks to a large, square lollipop block.

It has printed baton hour markers, shuffled in with a dash minutes track. A two-tone 24-hour GMT track is printed on the rehaut for easy visibility at sharp angles.

One other detail that departs from the standard SUB 250T GMT line is the shape of the GMT Hand. The large wireframe hand is replaced with an arrow hand, much like the GMT hand used by Rolex.

While this does make the GMT hand a bit harder to distinguish from the seconds hand, the difference in speed should clear up any momentary confusion.

All four hands are fitted with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova that is cohesive with the dial, all visible through an AR-coated flat sapphire crystal.

Back of a stainless steel Doxa Sub 250T watch with an engraved map and metal bracelet under blue light. — The Great White 250T GMT caseback is engraved with a stylized map of San Francisco Bay.

Doxa and Topper created the Great White series as a tribute to one of the ocean’s apex predators, the great white shark. It is routinely spotted in the cold Pacific waters of Northern California and is a symbol of its marine ecosystem.

A decorative, stylized map engraved on the stainless steel caseback depicts San Francisco Bay and notes the Farallon Islands. A portion of the sale of each watch is donated to the Greater Farallons Association, which is dedicated to preserving the critical marine habitat of the area.

Availability and price

Neither Doxa nor Topper discloses what movement is ticking away inside the SUB 250T GMT Great White’s elliptical stainless steel case. However, a press release reveals that the date click has been removed, leading me to believe that it is a modified version of the Sellita caliber SW330-2 automatic used in the standard SUB 250T GMT collection.

This respectable movement has a 4Hz beat rate and a 56-hour power reserve. It is a “caller” GMT, which sets the GMT hand independently with the crown in the second position.

Silver Doxa Sub 250T Great White watch with white dial, blue markers, and blue rubber strap. — A blue rubber strap is included with the SUB 250T GMT Great White.

The Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition is now available for pre-order, exclusively from Topper Jewelers, for $2,990, with a $500 deposit required.

Unlike the standard SUB 250T GMT, which allows you to choose between a stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet with a dive extension or a rubber strap with a steel clasp, this limited edition of 100 pieces comes with both.

Silver stainless steel Doxa SUB 250T watch with white dial and blue markers on a metal bracelet.

Doxa SUB 250T Great White Topper Edition

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Sellita caliber SW330-2 automatic
Water Resistance	250m

$2,990 at Topper Jewelers

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

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