This Classic Automatic Dive Watch Gets a Practical Daily-Wearing Update

Check out the smoky vertical fade.

Close-up of a stainless steel wristwatch with a black bezel, black dial, day-date display, and silver bracelet on a green reflective surface.Favre Leuba

If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

For the past year, my go-to daily watch has been a 1997 Seiko SKX025. I’ve gravitated toward this watch for many reasons, but one feature that has grown on me after initial dismissal is the day-date complication.

It holds true that no genuine dive watch needs the day and date displayed on the dial, but since the aquatic tool has become a preferred category for daily wear, it is a useful attribute. Favre Leuba acknowledges this fact by adding it to the Deep Raider collection, increasing the utility of the classic diver.

Stainless steel wristwatch with gradient black to orange dial, black bezel, and day-date display.
The Deep Raider Day Date adds the calendar complication to the Deep Raider.
Favre Leuba

Favre Leuba is a favorite among vintage watch collectors for its novel and distinct tool watches from the 1960s, before it fell victim to the Quartz Crisis. The brand never shut down completely, but was more or less a shell of itself before changing hands and leadership in 2024.

The Deep Raider collection was a marquee piece of the brand’s grand relaunch two years ago. The newest version essentially adds a day-date complication to the Deep Raider Renaissance, the collection’s entry-point model.

Silver metal wristwatch with blue dial, white markers, date display, and rotating bezel on a wrist.
The Deep Raider Day Date has a 40mm stainless steel case.
Favre Leuba

It features the same 40mm stainless steel case with brushed surfaces accented by polished chamfered edges. The crown is signed with the brand’s hourglass logo in relief and has no crown guard.

The coin-edge 120-click unidirectional bezel holds a ceramic insert marked with a 60-minute track and a pip. Unlike previous models, it is black for all four dial colors.

A day-date sandwich

Favre Leuba maintains the same highly legible sandwich dial construction for the newest Deep Raider, with long grooves cut out for each hour marker, exposing Super-LumiNova below.

Stainless steel Favre Leuba wristwatch with green dial and black bezel on a reflective black surface.
The Deep Raider Day Date features the same sandwich dial construction as existing models.
Favre Leuba

The obvious difference is that the small, round date window at 4:30 is replaced by a large, framed day-date at 3:00. The brand’s wordmark is still printed below 12:00, and its hourglass icon remains applied above 6:00.

The handset is also identical, distinguished by a big-arrow minute hand with a pointed lune insert below an isolated triangle insert, accompanied by a small-arrow seconds hand.

Black Favre Leuba wristwatch with blue luminescent hands and hour markers, day-date display, and rotating bezel.
The hands and hour markers feature blue-emission Super-LumiNova.
Favre Leuba

One more subtle update to the Deep Raider Day Date dial is the orientation of the smoky finish. Core Renaissance references have a sunburst dial with a traditional fumé ring around the rim, but the new iteration fades to black vertically.

The dial debuts in emerald green, blue, burgundy and salmon.

Deep specs

The Deep Raider Day Date does take one notable step down in performance from the Renaissance. While its time-and-date predecessor runs on a customized La Joux-Perret Caliber G100 with a 68-hour power reserve, the new day-date is powered by a customized Sellita Caliber SW-220-1.

The Sellita, referred to by the brand as the Caliber FLD05, is still a respectable automatic that beats at 4Hz, but the power reserve drops off to 38 hours.

Stainless steel wristwatch with black and red gradient dial, day-date display, and rotating bezel on a wrist.
The Deep Raider Day Date comes on a three-link stainless steel bracelet.
Favre Leuba

The newest addition to the Day Date collection comes on the familiar three-link steel bracelet, accented by brushed outer links and polished inner links. It fastens with a butterfly clasp and is removable with quick-release end links.

Availability and pricing

The Deep Raider Day Date boasts 300m water resistance, but chances are, most owners will never take it deeper than the bottom of a 10ft swimming pool. They will, however, glance at the day and date at least a few times a day when it’s on their wrist.

The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date is available now from Favre Leuba for $2,300. Thanks to the workhorse movement inside, that’s $650 less than the time-and-date Deep Raider Renaissance.

Stainless steel wristwatch with gradient green to black dial, day-date window, and rotating bezel.Favre Leuba

Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date

Specs

Case Size 2300
Movement Sellita Caliber SW-220-1 automatic
Water Resistance 300m

Want to stay up to date on the latest product news and releases? Add Gear Patrol as a preferred source to ensure our independent journalism makes it to the top of your Google search results.

add as a preferred source on google