This Blacked-Out Automatic Dive Watch Is an Affordable Retro Stunner

Yema is a well-rounded indie watchmaker, but it is best known for archival and retro-inspired dive watches. The Navygraf and Superman collections are bursting with robust, beautiful aquatic tool watches, mostly designed with a 1970s lean.

The new Navygraf Phantom fits right in with an era-specific look, and fills a blank spot in the brand’s current catalog by offering an all-black case, dial, bezel and bracelet.

Yema

The all-black watch template was established by Porsche Design with the 1972 Chronograph 1, and Yema’s new ultra-dark diver is a spiritual successor with its distinctly early-1970s design language.

The 38mm-wide by 11mm-tall stainless steel case and steel H-link bracelet both have a matching black IP coating and are finished with a heavy brushing that helps to mask any scuffs and scratches.

The screw-down crown, signed with Yema’s script “Y” logo, has a matching coating and is protected by a full crown guard.

Yema

The black bracelet is secured with a traditional safety clasp equipped with a diver’s extension. It offers four micro-adjustment settings, but requires a tool.

Glow in the dark

Like the Chronograph 1, the Navygraf Phantom offers just enough color to be highly legible. The bright yellow accent color is a staple of the Navygraf collection, often paired with blue on steel watches.

Yema

The dial is encircled by a white dash minute track with thickly printed hour markers at every fifth interval. The teal-emitting Super-LumiNova hour markers have pointed tittles, with the exception of a triangle below the double marker at 12:00.

Yema’s matte yellow retro handset features matching Super-LumiNova inlays in the hour and minute hands.

A white Yema logo and script Navygraf wordmark sit below 12:00 on the black dial, which is finished with vertical brushing to match the case and bracelet.

Yema

A 2.5mm double-domed sapphire crystal caps the dial, creating cool distortions at sharp angles. It is framed by a black IP steel bezel holding a black ceramic insert with a sandblasted finish, revealing a fully graduated 60-minute dive track in relief.

There is a creamy yellow pip matching the hour markers.

In the house

What really makes this gorgeous dive watch a great bargain at just over $2,000 is Yema’s in-house Caliber CMM.10 automatic movement. It beats at 4Hz and boasts an impressive 70-hour power reserve, a combination of traits rarely found in this price range.

Yema

The proudly French manufacture movement is showcased through a sapphire crystal caseback in a brushed black steel screw-on frame, ensuring 300m water resistance.

Personally, I would prefer to see Yema follow through on the 1970s look with a solid caseback, maybe finished with a cool engraving. But that’s the only note I have for an otherwise fantastic design.

Availability and pricing

The Yema Navygraf Phantom CMM.10 Limited Edition is available now from Yema for $2,090. This price is even more generous when you realize that it includes shipping, taxes and duties.

The watch is a limited edition run of 200 pieces.

Yema

Yema Navygraf Phantom CMM.10

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movement	Yema Caliber CMM.10 automatic
Water Resistance	300m

• $2,090 at Yema

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