This Minimalist Dress Watch Is Secretly an Ultra-Capable Tool Watch

Moser is the master of minimalist watches, with designs so sparse that even the Schaffhausen brand’s name is often left off its dials.

More than any other watchmaker, Moser has also proven that minimalist doesn’t mean simple. The brand seems to take pride in minimizing complications to the point where you almost don’t even notice them, such as its blink-and-you’ll-miss-’em takes on the perpetual calendar and chronograph.

Now, Moser has taken the challenge of combining three very handy complications — a flyback chronograph, GMT and a date — in one classy dress watch that looks decidedly uncomplicated, resulting in a highly discreet, ultra-capable tool watch.

H. Moser & Cie.

Under the radar

The Endeavour is Moser’s dress watch line, so it’s not the most obvious candidate to be transformed into what is functionally the ultimate tool watch. But that didn’t stop the mad lads at Moser from doing so anyway.

The new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date is exactly what its name suggests: an Endeavour with that triumvirate of complications.

As usual for Moser, the chronograph is executed here without the use of any subdials. Both the seconds and minutes are tracked centrally on full-sized hands, with the top red hand counting the chronograph seconds and the rhodium-plated lower hand chronicling the minutes.

H. Moser & Cie.

The chronograph is also a flyback, as its name suggests. The pusher at 2:00 starts, stops and resets the chrono, while the second pusher at 10:00 is used to activate the flyback function, causing the chronograph to reset and restart instantly with a single push. The only real clue that this watch is a chronograph, outside of those pretty subdued pushers, is a black tachymeter scale on the interior bezel flange.

Moving inward on the dial, we have a graduated minute track printed in white against a gorgeous turquoise sunburst fumé dial. At 6:00, there’s a date window with white printing on a gray disc. Even that has a special party trick, as the date can be adjusted both forward and backward without damaging the movement.

In the center of the dial, transforming this stunner into a tuxedo dial of sorts, is a gray-black (which Moser calls “Blackor”) sunburst fumé disc. Look closely, and you’ll see a small white arrow on this disc. That’s a pointer for your GMT, which uses the hour markers to indicate a second time zone in an easy-to-read 12-hour format.

H. Moser & Cie.

As expected, neither Moser’s logo nor name appears anywhere on the dial, though the 4:00 crown is signed with an “M.” There is a signature on the movement, however, which is fully visible through the sapphire caseback.

The movement is the brand-new, extremely complicated Calibre HMC 730. Developed by chronograph specialists Agenhor for Moser, it’s a manually wound evolution of Moser’s usual flyback chronograph movement, Cal. HMC 902, with the automatic winding mechanism removed to make way for the date and dual-time functions.

The movement boasts a column wheel for crisp chronograph action, along with a snail cam that enables the chronograph minute hand to jump every 60 seconds. The movement, which is decorated within an inch of its life, has two mainspring barrels providing three days of power reserve, which can be tracked by a discreet power reserve indicator visible through the caseback.

H. Moser & Cie.

All of this beautiful chaos is smuggled inside a polished 42mm stainless steel case that’s water-resistant to 30m (i.e., be careful with this one around water) and mounted on a gray alligator nubuck leather strap with a turquoise lining and secured with a signed steel pin buckle.

Availability and pricing

Moser’s slogan is “very rare,” so it’s not like you’re going to see everyone you know rocking the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date. The watch is not a limited edition, but because Moser’s output is small, production numbers will still be quite limited.

The watch is also, like all Mosers, very expensive. It retails for $74,400 and is available now through Moser boutiques and authorized dealers.

H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

Specs

Case Size	42mm
Movement	H. Moser & Cie. Cal. HMC 730 manual-wind flyback chronograph GMT
Water Resistance	30m

• $74,400 at H. Moser & Cie.

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