Seiko’s Speedtimer has a heritage that rivals that of hyped luxury chronographs like the Daytona, Carrera and Speedmaster, despite being significantly more affordable.
It debuted alongside Switzerland’s original automatic chronographs, saw duty in outer space and has become interwoven with motorsports timing. So it was an obvious selection for Seiko’s 145th anniversary collection honoring Kintaro Hattori, who founded the brand in 1881.
Seiko’s 145th anniversary Prosepex Speedtimer SRQ059 is built on the current generation of Seiko’s flagship automatic chronograph. Even though it looks significantly different than the original 1969 mono-compax design, a 2023 overhaul embraced the popular auto racing chronograph design language of the late 1960s and early 1970s.
However, a subtle texture, situated on a plane between the applied hour markers and sunken subdials, references a far older chapter in the esteemed Japanese watchmaker’s history. The woven spiral guilloché-like pattern emanating from the dial’s center is based on engravings from some of the earliest pocket watches sold by Hattori.
The pearly off-white nineteenth-century geometric texture blends surprisingly well with the 1960s-inspired dial. It adds a level of sophistication to the otherwise sporty design, which is further enhanced by the gold-toned finish on the hands, hour markers and dial logo.
Along with nods to Hattori’s designs, gold detailing is a unifying feature found on all four watches in Seiko’s new 145th anniversary collection. But those two elements have the strongest juxtaposition on Seiko’s heralded tool watch.
