Breitling’s Old Sister Brand Returns with Its First New Dive Watch in Decades

Sicura is back.

Close-up of a stainless steel dive watch with black and yellow dial, rotating bezel, and date window on a yellow background.Sicura

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While Breitling sits near the top of the luxury watch landscape these days, consistently ranking among the top ten in market share among Swiss brands, that wasn’t the case 50 years ago.

In the midst of the 1970s – 1980s period now known as the Quartz Crisis, cheap, quartz-powered watches from Japan decimated the Swiss watch industry, driving countless brands out of business. Many big names fell on hard times and were forced to find new ownership in order to survive.

One such brand was Breitling, which was purchased by fellow Swiss brand Sicura in 1979. As an early adopter of quartz technology, Sicura, which was founded in 1939, was able to weather the Japanese storm better than most.

Still, Breitling was a far bigger name, so after Sicura moved Breitling’s operation under its own roof, the brand began phasing out its own watches, though they remained in production through the 1980s. Finally, in 1993, the Sicura name went away for good, with the company renaming itself Breitling after its most famous acquisition.

Now, more than 30 years later, Sicura is back with a new owner and its first new watch collection in decades.

Stainless steel Sicura dive watch with blue dial, yellow accents, date window, and rotating bezel on yellow background.
Breitling’s old sister brand returns, sans Breitling, for its first new watch in decades.
Sicura

Dive back in

Sicura joins the long list of zombie Swiss brands that, through the purchase of a dormant brand name, have returned to life in the 21st century. Ironically, Breitling itself has recently done this with its resurrection of defunct brands Universal Geneve and Gallet.

The new Sicura is unrelated to Breitling, however, and is owned by the Netherlands-based D Group, which oversees a handful of small brands, with Sicura being the best known.

For its grand return, Sicura has looked to its most popular era, the 1960s and ’70s, for inspiration. That’s when the brand was under the ownership of Ernest Schneider, a former Army officer and pilot who transformed Sicura into a major tool-watch innovator.

The first watch of the Sicura comeback is the Hexa 400, a brand-new dive watch model that shares some similarities with the brand’s mid-century Super Compressor 400 and its unique dual-bezel setup.

Stainless steel Sicura wristwatch with bright orange dial and black rotating bezel worn on a wrist.
Like Sicura’s mid-century Super Compressor 400, the new Hexa 400 features two rotating bezels with different functions.
Sicura

Like that vintage diver, the Hexa 400 features a traditional external unidirectional dive-time bezel along with an inner bezel actuated by a second crown at 2:00. This inner bezel displays a secondary 12-hour time scale, allowing you to track a second time zone without the use of a fourth hand. Time-setting and winding are handled by the crown at 4:00, and both crowns screw down.

Those screw-down crowns help secure the Hexa 400’s impressive 400m water resistance, while the watch’s unique hexagonal 40mm stainless steel case represents the other half of the Hexa 400’s name.

Brushed stainless steel Sicura watch back with engraved seahorses, crown, and fish emblem on a yellow background.
The rugged octagonal case sports a surprisingly elegant screw-down caseback.
Sicura

The materials used are all pretty robust and impressive, and are what you’d expect to find on a Swiss-made tool watch knocking on the door of $2,000. The bezel insert is made of ceramic and is fully graduated with all markings filled with green-emission Super-LumiNova. The crystal is sapphire. And the hands and applied indices are filled with blue-emission Super-LumiNova to differentiate them from the bezel.

The chunky three-row steel bracelet is fully brushed and is secured with a seriously tough-looking clasp that features a safety lock and a push-button microadjustment system. The movement inside is a standard Sellita SW200-1 automatic.

Black dive watch with glowing blue hour markers and hands, green bezel numerals, and date window at 3 o'clock.
The bicolor Super-LumiNova adds to the Hexa 400’s tool-watch street cred.
Sicura

Availability and pricing

Sicura isn’t really a name that’s going to excite anyone but a few vintage watch nerds, and I’m not sure that we really need yet another Swiss zombie brand. Even so, the Hexa 400 looks pretty good. The materials used are top-notch, the design is original and I appreciate the uniqueness of the dual-function bezel. So as long as the new Sicura keeps pumping out interesting new tool watches, it will count me as a fan.

The Hexa 400 comes in three colors: orange, blue and black, and all are available now directly from the brand for $1,706.

Stainless steel Sicura Hexa 400 dive watch with black dial, yellow inner bezel, and date window at 3 o'clock.Sicura

Sicura Hexa 400

Specs

Case Size 40mm
Movement Sellita Cal. SW200-1 automatic
Water Resistance 400m

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