TAG Heuer’s Entry-Level Dive Watch Gets a Sporty, 1980s-Inspired Revamp

Let there be light.

Close-up of a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph watch with a black dial, silver markers, and a gray metal case and bracelet.TAG Heuer

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TAG Heuer is one of the most storied and respected tool watch brands, but it didn’t start producing divers until 1978. And it was the 2000 Series, introduced in 1982, that established the Swiss watchmaker as a destination for serious aquatic timekeeping.

The 2000 Series, often referred to as the Professional Series, established a design language considered futuristic in the early 1980s, but it now has a more retro feel. It lives on in the recently revived Formula 1 collection and in the brand’s flagship diver, the Aquaracer Professional.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer stainless steel wristwatch with black dial and date window on a wrist.
The new Aquaracer Professional 200 embraces the “futuristic” design introduced by the 2000 Series in 1982.
TAG Heuer

While TAG Heuer has progressed the look of its dive watches over the past forty years, it has never strayed too far from the early 2000 Series designs. The newest refresh to the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph borrows heavily from those early 1980s references, especially the 962.

The protrusion on the case at 9:00, designed to match the crown guard for a balanced look and feel, is enlarged from the previous generation to match the original proportions. However, it has been accented to match the fluted grip on the bezel.

Two TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solagraph watches with stainless steel bands, one with a green dial and the other with a blue dial, on a light blue background.
The new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph emphasizes the lug bezel grips with contrasting finishing.
TAG Heuer

The updated bezel features large, keystone-shaped grips referred to by the brand as lugs. They are polished to heavily contrast with the grainy, engraved 60-minute track, with numerals every 10 minutes in relief.

The 40mm case is available in steel and titanium and, as the name suggests, offers 200m water resistance.

A sunny disposition

The dial is unchanged from the 2022 debut of the Aquaracer Solargraph. It is simpler than its mechanical counterpart, featuring fencepost hour and minute hands joined by a needle seconds hand.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solagraph watch with black dial, silver markers, turquoise second hand, and stainless steel bracelet.
The new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph has simflified
TAG Heuer

Applied triangular hour markers and a square, framed date window at 3:00 are another callback to the early 1980s, though both are now more polished and refined.

Both steel references have rhodium-plated hands and index frames, while one titanium reference updates that look with a sky blue seconds hand, and the other features rose gold plating.

The dial plate uses horizontal bars as slats to allow light to reach the solar-powered quartz movement inside. TAG Heuer developed the Caliber TH50-00 movement in partnership with La Joux-Perret, a Swiss manufacture owned by Citizen, the industry’s top authority on solar movements.

Silver TAG Heuer Aquaracer wristwatch with a black striped dial and rose gold accents on a turquoise background.
The horizontal slats on the dial allow light to reach the solar-powered quartz movement.
TAG Heuer

The dial is available in blue and green on the steel case, black on the beadblasted titanium case and slate gray on the rose gold-accented model.

A consummate professional

During the 1980s and 1990s, TAG Heuer’s Professional series of quartz-powered dive watches developed a strong reputation as tough, reliable and affordable, and there is still a strong demand for them on the vintage market.

Back of a silver TAG Heuer Aquaracer watch with engraved compass rose and metal bracelet on a turquoise background.
The Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph has a nautical star engraved in relief on the caseback.
TAG Heuer

The new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph carries that legacy with a tough-as-nails design. The solar movement provides far more shock resistance than a mechanical alternative.

The three-link bracelet features contrasting brushed outer links and polished center links on the steel version and a full bead-blasted finish on the titanium version. It is removable with push-button endlinks and features a micro-adjustable folding clasp.

Matte gray metal watch clasp with engraved geometric logo and linked bracelet segments.
The three-link bracelet features a micro-adjustable folding clasp.
TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer’s design language for the original 2000 Series was so progressive and futuristic in the 1980s that it drew divisive reactions. Even today, dive watch fanatics and TAG Heuer collectors either love it or hate it, but you can’t argue with the fact that it has endured for over forty years.

The new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is another fresh iteration, but it is unmistakably an ancestor of the 2000 Series.

Availability and pricing

TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph collection is available now from TAG Heuer. It costs $3,100 in steel, $3,600 in titanium and $3,850 in titanium with rose gold dial detailing.

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